Meador Manor

Robbers Cave Lakes (click image for slideshow)

When I awoke on the second day of winter, I decided a hot breakfast was needed to get me through a long day of hiking at Robbers Cave State Park.  So I ignored the continental offerings at the Days Inn and went down the road to the Denny’s.  The food was not good – tomorrow I’ll probably try Angel’s Diner instead, since I’ll need pampering before the 4.5 hour drive to Quartz Mountain.

After escaping the Denny’s it was a 50-minute drive over to Robbers Cave State Park.  I ignored the north end of the park where the cave itself may be found and where I hiked over 8 miles back on December 5.  Instead I turned west and then south at the main entrance and drove to Deep Ford Campground at the south end.  I parked there and took a low-water crossing across Fourche Maline Creek, with Princess parked upstream beyond a low-water dam.

A fallen sign announced I was on the San Bois Mountains Hiking Trail, which would run northward along the mountains on the park’s western edge, passing first Lake Carlton and then Lake Wayne Wallace. The wide and well-maintained trail climbed 150 feet to the top of the mountain, passing through the short rocky bluffs below the summit.

The trail ran along the ridge and then descended to the south shore of Lake Carlton, offering a splendid panorama. The lake was built in 1937 by the CCC and is named for Carlton Weaver, who donated the 120 acre area around the cave site to the Boy Scouts back in 1929. Across the lake some park buildings I would later walk by were visible, while to my right the lake abruptly flowed over the curved rim of the old dam. I walked over to the rim of the dam and then clambered below it.

Returning to the trail, I spied the bluffs across the lake which I would soon be clambering across. The trail made the ascent and I admired the eroded complexity where a tree clung tenaciously to life. The ascent here was the steepest of the day, and I paused for a self-portrait after shedding my jacket but retaining a shirt and sweatshirt since the temperature was still in the 40s with a sharp north wind. I walked out on some bluff edges for a superb view of the lake below. The chain of bluffs afforded more great views, including a set of bridges which I wondered about. Later I would visit them and find out they were part of an outdoor classroom.

The trail then descended, crossing a dry streambed formed from a large shelf of rock, then ascended the next mountain, which would wind past Lake Wayne Wallace. I was surprised that the lake was barely visible, since I was fast approaching the part of the trail I’d been on a few weeks earlier, which ran along the lake’s far northwest shore. The trail began a rapid descent as lunchtime approached and I decided to forego going all the way down to the unattractive lake shore and then have to climb right back up.

Instead, I took advantage of a convenient tree stump seat left for me by a thoughtful forester and enjoyed a sandwich I’d picked up on my out to the park. But then my mouth began burning. I’d forgotten and once again bought one with that darn Pepperjack Cheese and hastily swished some G2 around in my mouth to take the sting off.

I began to retrace my steps, but then decided to bushwhack my way to the summit, where I could see a ring of bluffs. I was surprised to find the top was a large flat clearing with petroleum machinery. A stand of planted pines helped soften the blow. I circled the rim and found a rough trail which led down to a bridle trail which happily ran back south just below the summit rim, high above the trail I’d taken earlier. A series of bridle and foot trails led to jutting bluffs above Lake Wayne Wallace, reminiscent of the ones I’d enjoyed earlier above Lake Carlton.

I had a panoramic view of the 93-foot high earthen dam of this younger lake, created for flood control back in 1964 and more than twice as high as the arch dam of Lake Carlton. A trail ran along high bluffs at the western end of the dam, with a final promontory which was impressive from both the north and the south. I began a quick descent to the outlet pool below the dam. Looking up I could see the promontory I’d stood atop moments before.

Then I hiked through the empty equestrian campground, taking a brief side trip down to the Fourche Maline Creek running beside it. I passed a picturesque CCC shelter and peeked through its doorway as I reached the park road and then hiked along its shoulder back south to Lake Carlton. A soft carpet of pine needles made this one of the most pleasant shoulder walks I’ve taken.

When I reached the lake area, I investigated the wood bridges I’d seen earlier and found they led to a shelter which was part of an outdoor classroom along the creek. Soon I was back at the arch dam.  The arch not only lends it strength, but gives it a distinctive look as the water flows gently over its edge. I took a rough trail down below it to admire some creek bluffs and their odd cavities. A series of low dams create gentle pools for fishing down this stretch of the creek, which I followed back to my car.

I’d hiked just over six miles, but the sun was still up in the sky and I was ready for more. So I drove across the highway over to the Belle Starr View Lodge, where I hiked out back to see the view, which was not all that impressive due to tree growth. But I did get a shot of the lodge perched on its high bluff.

I found the trailhead for the Coon Creek Ridge Trail and followed its red blazes for a bit. But then a side trail made a steep descent amidst huge boulders and lured me away. It wound its way down the hillside but then I lost the trail, so I kept descending until I came across a bridle trail. The 50 miles of bridle trails in the park come in handy for us bushwhackers. By switching from trail to trail I made my way down to the creek, where I found pools providing many lovely reflections.

Soon I came acros an old CCC dam, which I mistakenly thought was creating Coon Creek Lake, although that much larger and newer flood control lake was actually further downstream and I missed it entirely on this outing. I bushwhacked my way across the creek, hoping to find a trail. Eventually I came across the multi-purpose trail which loops the entire park and followed it for some ways until I worried I was too far north for what I thought should be the adjoining Coon Creek Ridge loop trail.

So I started bushwhacking northwestward along a stream bed and then across brushy areas, crossing a stream or two and then steadily climbing the hill to its bluffs and up over its long ridge. Still no trail!  I trudged onward and finally found the trail and its welcome red blazes. I followed it through a pine forest, replete with baby trees, back to the lodge.

I’d gone over nine miles this day and was ready to call it quits. But before I left I drove down the row of cabins to Cabin 101 at the very end to see its view of the San Bois Mountains. I’d practically had the park to myself all day, coming across only a few fishermen and folks in cars, and never encountering another hiker on all of the trails. As gorgeous as this place is, I’m sure it would be a far different tale outside of the wintry months.

Back in McAlester I showered and enjoyed an excellent dinner, complete with homemade flour tortillas, at Patrón Mexican Grill. I spent the remainder of the day in my room, editing photos and blogging.

Tomorrow I plan to rise early for a long westward drive to Quartz Mountain. I reserved a room there back when the forecast called for sun and 60s. But a cold front has replaced that promise with predictions of rain beginning in the evening and continuing through noon on Friday. So I’ll try to get some trails in before the rain starts and then take it easy at the resort.

Previous Robbers Cave Day Hikes:
September 6, 2009: Cave Area
December 5, 2010: Rough Canyon Loop

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

<– Previous hike: Wister Winterset

Next: Climbing Mountains of Quartz –>

Lake Wister (click image for slideshow)

The first day of winter found me returning to southern Oklahoma to begin a series of day hikes away from home.  But first my faithful Camry, Princess, needed some maintenance.  My ongoing series of day hikes has not only had me walking far more than before, but doubling the miles I drive each week.  So after only three months it was already time to have the tires rotated and the oil changed.  I dropped Princess off with Tate Boys and walked about 2000 feet along Washington Boulevard on a cold foggy morning for breakfast at Eggbert’s. The car was ready when I returned, and just down the Boulevard I stopped in at Master Lube.  Finally Princess and I were ready for our trip to Lake Wister in southeastern Oklahoma. By the time I reached Poteau I was ready for lunch, so I stopped in for the buffet at Mazzio’s and then drove over to the lake.

Lake Wister is located in the San Bois Mountains on the Poteau River — the only river that flows north in Oklahoma. The dam’s control house proclaimed it was built in 1948.  The park has fallen on hard times, so while the Quarry Island area out in the lake is still maintained, on my 6.8 mile hike I would soon discover that the camping and picnic Area 2 on the lake’s north shore was locked off and abandoned, while nearby Wards Landing is closed until next March and showing clear signs of neglect.

I parked by the cabins just north of the dam and walked into the cabin office, asking the lady manning it how to find the trail I knew should run along the north shore from the dam all the way over to Wards Landing.  She hesitated and said there was a trail of indeterminate length at the end of the cabin road, but due to funding problems they had not been maintaining it and thus did not call attention to it anymore. I told her I’d go try it out and thanked her.

I found a damaged trailhead and wound my way down to the lake shore below the dam.  The faint trail quickly faded into a shoreline covered in debris and detritus.  Struggling along the rugged shore, I made my way over to a pumping installation.  Climbing up to it, I found the road leading to it was part of an old road bed that led on westward. This abandoned road bed was clearly the first section of the old trail. After clambering along the rocky rugged shore, even an overgrown faint trail was a welcome sight.

At a clearing I shot a panorama of the lake, and later I could see the west point of Quarry Island across the gleaming water.  The road bed was making a straight shot westward along the lake’s north shore for over a mile, with a rugged bluff above me to one side, shot through from time to time by rocky stream beds.  Soon I was passing Quarry Island, wondering if the trail would ever show any variety.

Finally it began leading away from the lake shore into the woods, my path marked by fading blue and white blazes on the trees.  The trail reached the park road, which featured an old bridge of railroad ties across the stream which had formed the long inlet I’d been paralleling.  I crossed its rough surface and then returned to the trail, discovering an old sign with a trail map.

The trail suddenly crashed into a rocky ridge mound and faded away.  I ascended to discover Area 2 on the other side. My first site was a moss-covered picnic table. Clearly this site had been closed for some time, although the large shelter was in good repair. I found a surviving trail sign which pointed to an even more disused section of trail leading on westward to Wards Landing.

There I found a pretty inlet and some tiny shells.  But the paved handicapped-accessible loop of the Lone Star Nature Trail was a sad story of neglect, with only a few legible signs.  Fittingly, across from a weathered sign about wildlife shelters was a tree with a prominent hole.

By 3:30 pm the light was fading on this shortest day of the year, so I began the return journey.  I liked how a stone in the trail bed had been transformed into a white trail blaze.  My retracing of the path was uneventful, with the lowering sun cutting through the cloud deck. This time I followed the old road bed all the way past the cabins back to my car.

At this time of year and in its abandoned state, I was not surprised that I had not encountered any other hikers all afternoon.  The trail is still quite passable, although at one spot the old road bed is washing away and a downed tree blocked the trail completely at one point, requiring a brief bushwhack around it.  But a few more years of neglect will make this trail much more difficult to traverse.  Unfortunately it is likely that our legislature will continue to allow state services and infrastructure to crumble due to budget shortfalls even as it allows a ridiculous growth law (our state’s income “grew” a bit this year, even though it is far below historical levels) to further cut revenue from income taxes.

I zipped westward to Krebs, where I had a cheap dinner at Sonic.  What a contrast to the big Italian family-style dinner Carrie and I had enjoyed the night before a few blocks west at Pete’s Place! But I wasn’t very hungry and just wanted enough fuel to get me through a night of photo editing and blogging in my room at the Days Inn & Suites in McAlester.

For this trip I brought my MacBook Air instead of the Asus Eee PC netbook I’d used on past overnight trips.  I decided to do everything with native Mac apps, so I downloaded a trial version of Photoshop Elements 9 for the Mac as well as the Mac versions of Google Earth and the Flickr Uploader.  It all worked fine and was a superior editing experience over the netbook with the Mac’s improved screen, keyboard, and storage speed.  I did notice that the Air’s inferior processor caused the Auto Smart Fix in Photoshop Elements to run slower than on my Windows 7 desktop machine at home, but the annoyance was minimal.

Tomorrow I head back eastward 40 miles to Robbers Cave State Park to spend the day on the Coon Ridge and Mountain Trails, having hiked the other trails there a few weeks back.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

<– Autumn Ends at Arrowhead

Return to Robbers Cave –>

Arrowhead at Lake Eufala (click image for slideshow)

The last day of autumn found me driving south to Tulsa to pick up my friend Carrie for a day hike at Arrowhead State Park on Lake Eufala.  Our first stop was Angel’s Diner, which sported a 1950s theme.  Carrie had James Dean’s Philly Steak and a Tootie Fruity vanilla shake while I had The King’s Chicken Fried Steak and Gomer’s Chocolate Cobbler.  It was a tasty, if unhealthy, repast which would sustain us as we hiked at Arrowhead.

The former lodge was sold off awhile back to Narconon, but the air strip, golf course, campsites, and bridle trails are still open to the public.  We parked at the office and set out on what would become a 5.5 mile loop on the blue/brown and white bridle trails.

The trail started out with little signs nailed to the trees but once it hit a rough road the trail disappeared.  So we followed the road down toward the lake until we hit the blue/brown bridle trail and followed it.  I call it blue/brown as that was the color of the ribbons tied to the trees, but I could also call it the Bud Light trail because throughout the rest of our hike we would frequently spot such cans discarded by thoughtless riders.  I might excuse the park staff for not picking them up if they were recent, but we also saw a number of faded cans which clearly had been left in situ for a long time.  If we had brought a big garbage bag with us we could have picked up a huge sackful of cans.

The trail was rough and rocky with relatively little of great interest.  We finally passed a small lagoon where we spotted some waterfowl.  As the trail wound past what the sketchy park map called Lakeview Circle, we could see the lake below us, glinting through the trees.  The trail finally wound down close enough for us to bushwhack to the shoreline, where we snapped photos of each other. A nearby television set discarded on the shoreline was missing its picture tube, but I set it upright so we could watch the rocks through it for a bit.  This park definitely needs some cleaning up.

The trail later ascended the ridge of the peninsula, passing through some of the rock formations encircling the summit. The day was a mix of sun and overcast, but sometimes the sun and bright blue sky broke through above us, a most welcome sight.

I was tiring of the rough-and-tumble trail as it wound through the somewhat monotonous woods (and beer cans).  I was truly glad to find the trail leveling out with a prominent tree gleaming in the sunshine across the main road up ahead, indicating we were about to turn southeast for the return to the park office.  Soon Carrie asked, “Are we there yet?”  It was her way of letting me know that she had spotted my restlessness and was also footsore and ready for trail’s end.

At one point I pulled off yet another piece of high grass to play with, this time holding it up in one hand while aiming the camera with the other.  The resultant shot turned out better than I had expected.

As we approached the car, an overlook provided a nice view of the lake and the former lodge below. Carrie posed for a final shot.  It had been a nice afternoon tromping about, although the scenery was limited.  Arrowhead is only a shadow of its former self these days.

We drove back to Krebs for a nice if overly large meal at Pete’s Place and then returned to our respective homes.  I would be repeating much of the drive the following day, heading to the east of McAlester as I began a series of day hikes on the first four days of winter.  In about 18 hours I’d be hiking along the north shore of Lake Wister, exploring the abandoned areas of another state park.

Click here for a slideshow of this day hike

Next hike: Wister Winterset