A Hot Time on Turkey Mountain

June 14, 2014

Wendy and I plan to hike during our trip to Santa Fe, NM in a few weeks. As it had been a month since we’d been out on a real hike, we decided to rectify the situation with a loop on Turkey Mountain down in Tulsa. The forecast called for sun and temperatures in the mid-80s with strong winds, so Wendy wisely called for a hike mostly in shade. I selected Turkey Mountain since most of its trails, except for the Powerline one, are under tree cover. We fortified ourselves at El Chico and then headed over to the mountain to hit the trails.

Lo Chi Trail Bridge

There are several long trails paralleling the north-south ridge of the mountain. About a year ago Wendy and I hiked the yellow loop and a bit of the pink one; the yellow loop uses the Ho Chi and Ridge trails, and I’ve been on it multiple times. I’d also hiked the Hi Chi trail with some colleagues back in September 2012. I wanted something different on this foray into the urban wilderness, so I studied the very nice River Parks map of the venue, which was made possible by the GPS trail mapping of Ron Haveman, who is listed as #55 on the Tatur running club site.

Lo Chi Trail Bridge

I opted to take the Lo Chi trail which runs along the shore of the Arkansas River down below the Ho Chi trail but above the paved River Parks trail. When the Lo Chi petered out, we could then climb up to the Ho Chi trail, turn around at the Spider area, and take another trail I’d not ventured down, the Millennium (presumably misspelled as Millenium on the map). I hoped to also follow the Enchanted Forest trail, but made a wrong turn today and instead we negotiated the final leg of our hike on the well-travelled blue trail.

Before setting out, we slathered on some sunscreen and sprayed ourselves with insect repellent. We headed due east on the paved River Parks West trail until I spied the turnoff for the Lo Chi trail, leading off northeast through the tall grass and weeds of a powerline cut. Thankfully it soon entered the forested slopes of the mountain. Two mountain bikers soon passed us and were the only other people we saw on the Lo Chi trail, besides a family who were exiting the trail as we left the paved trail. The trail runs below the tall bluff on which the more popular Ho Chi trail runs; we caught occasional glimpses of the bluff through this urban jungle. We saw a couple of ramps on the trail constructed for thrill-seeking bikers, and made use of one bridge.

Berries on the Lo Chi Trail

As usual, my gaze was directed ahead and above while Wendy more wisely watched where she stepped. That meant she spotted the berries and mushrooms along our trek to which I was mostly oblivious. We passed one large spray of blooms on the trail as it threaded through the close overgrowth. I was excited when the old Midland Valley tracks became visible to our right, later finding a short connector which allowed us to venture out on the rails. The Midland Valley line was built in 1904, part of a 277 mile-long railway along the Arkansas River from Hoye, Arkansas to Wichita, Kansas. Built to transport Arkansas coal, it instead flourished via the oil boom, serving the Glenpool, Burbank, and Bigheart oil fields. Today most of the old railroad is abandoned, and a 3.3 mile section of the line is now a trail linking Tulsa’s downtown with the River Parks.

An eye-level group of tree fungi caught my eye as we reached the end of the Lo Chi trail and faced the steep climb up the bluff to the main yellow trail on the Ho Chi. We paused for a breather alongside the main bluff face before tackling the next climb. The higher trail gave a better view of the nearby Arkansas River. For decades Tulsa has dreamed of constructing more low-water dams to turn the river from a wide swatch of sandbars into something more scenic, but that would be very expensive and require much planning and coordination.

Millennium Trail
Huge Toadstool by the Trail

We reached the north end of the yellow trail loop and turned about, finding the Millennium trail as the planned alternate to the typical Ridge trail. I was very pleased with this change, as the Millennium trail was narrower, less travelled, and sometimes quite photogenic. A brief foray down an unmapped connector revealed a huge toadstool, while on the main path there was a white mushroom growing out from under a rock and other fungi shaped like a star and a heart.

We missed the intended Enchanted Forest trail to the south, instead following the sandy Blue Trail back to the parking area, where we cleaned up a bit before heading back north to Bartlesville.

Turkey Mountain Trailheads

That night we attended the Grand Finale Concert at OK Mozart.  We’d enjoyed excerpts from The Magic Flute on Wednesday, attended the Sarah Jarosz concert on Thursday, and this night would feature a rousing performance of Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9 in d minor by the festival’s Amici New York orchestra, joined in the spectacular final movement, featuring the Ode to Joy, by the Bartlesville Choral Society, additional choral groups from Stillwater and Tulsa, and four gifted vocal soloists who had sung semi-staged parts in The Magic Flute two days earlier. It was indeed a Grand Finale, with the Community Center thundering with the exuberant sounds of this miracle, which is beloved worldwide and was completed when Beethoven was completely deaf from tinnitus.

What a splendid day it was for us, sharing lunch at our favorite restaurant, followed by a nature hike, and capped off with the Beethoven’s most exciting symphony. Egad!

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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Sugar Ridge at Beaver Lake, Day 3

June 8, 2014

Before we checked out of our cabin at Sugar Ridge late Sunday morning, Wendy saw a red-headed woodpecker from out on the deck and we watched the antics of squirrels. Wendy got a great shot of a Colona moth with her iPhone, and a large Luna moth on the side of the cabin was as relaxed as we were.

Butterfly Vessel by Jennifer McCurdy
Day 3 Trip Map
Butterfly Vessel by Jennifer McCurdy

Before heading home, we contemplated a walk at nearby Lake Leatherwood, but the XTERRA race event was underway.  So we headed west through light rain, meandering a bit to see the town of Pea Ridge, to arrive at the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville. We’d been there in mid-April, so only two small exhibits were new: some architectural models from the firm of Moshe Safdie, who designed the museum, and a collection of ceramic works from area museums. Unfortunately the ceramics were behind glass displays cases in a corridor where the opposite wall of glass looking out onto the pond created harsh glare. So they were quite difficult to photograph.

Wendy and I both liked Jennifer McCurdy‘s intricately formed Butterfly Vessel and she liked pottery works by Bill Glass, including Star Faces and Booger SnakesThe Pair of Sea Urchins by Maggie Barnes was particularly fine slipware which looked quite organic with its irregularly shaped holes and beautiful patterns.

Sea Urchin by Maggie Barnes
Pigasso show

We dawdled at the museum so that we could enjoy a late lunch at the nearby Abuelo’s, sitting down in an alcove by a rack of children’s art books. I was very amused by When Pigasso Met Mootisse by Nina Laden; you can enjoy it online. It was very bold and colorful, with a fun play on Matisse’s reclining nudes, such as Blue Nude, and a hilarious depiction of Picasso’s actual response in Young Ladies of AvignonThere is even some splattering à la Jackson Pollack when the two rivals meet in this well-executed book.

Before we left for our late lunch and journey home, we purchased some treats at the Eleven restaurant in the museum, but regretted they did not have the wonderful chocolate-mocha cupcakes we’d enjoyed previously.  The rain prevented us from exploring the grounds much, although we did walk the Orchard Trail under our umbrellas and noticed a beautiful tapering metal pole with an interesting crown out among the trees. It didn’t seem to be a flagpole, and we wondered if it was an art installation or something more functional, such as a sensor or antenna. It isn’t listed as an art piece on their website, so perhaps it is the latter.

Our long weekend visit to northwest Arkansas was a great way to celebrate the beginning of summer break. No doubt we’ll have more excursions, albeit restricted by summer weather, and we’ve already planned out a trip westward in late June and early July to New Mexico, with a focus on the beautiful and relaxing Santa Fe.

Click here for a slideshow from this day

< Sugar Ridge, Day 2

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Sugar Ridge at Beaver Lake, Day 2

June 7, 2014
Left Guardian

Beaver Lake View

We awoke on Sugar Ridge to light rain and wind moving in from the south across the lake. After the shower ended, we watched a sailboat out on the lake below and saw the Belle of the Ozarks out on its morning tour. We saw cardinals out back and I ventured out front of our cabin to photograph the demon dogs guarding the left and right sides of an entry gate to an adjacent building under construction.

Guardians

Blue Spring

Poppies

We then drove over to the peninsula on the White River/Table Rock Lake to walk at Blue Spring; I had toured this attraction on my own a month earlier. We watched the entire historical video and then made our way down the hill to the gazebo and over to the spring. We walked about the grounds, admiring the poppies and other flowers and noting busy bees and ladybugs. We crossed the dam, looking back at the gazebo and also down at the spill. My Canon SX260 HS camera, which has survived some rough use, would no longer fully open its lens cover, so I either had to manually press it all of the way open or accept a masked shot, such as one I took of the dam.

Eureka Springs

Exposed Tree Roots in Harding Park

We wound our way around the grounds and then returned to Wendy’s Xanadu, which needed gasoline. So we drove over to Eureka Springs to fill up the car and then ourselves, seeking lunch at the Local Flavors Cafe. We parked in one of the public lots downtown, noticing some nice paintings and photographs on the art wall in front of us. We parked directly in front of a print of Edward Robison’s gigapan of Inspiration Point, and also liked Wild Wings by Randy Rust and Ozark Creek Downtown by Janet Goodyear.

We enjoyed sandwiches at the Local Flavor Cafe, which I have eaten at several times over the years. Then we walked through town, climbing the stairs at the Basin Park Hotel to see the ballroom up top. We made our way up Spring Street to Harding Park (aka Sweet Swing Park) but Wendy was very thirsty and there were no watering holes in the area. So we circled about until we found Chelsea’s Bar for a free cup of water, both feeling rather out of place in that dark and boozy place on a sunny afternoon.

We circled back around to the small park, where as a small child I would climb the stairways by Sweet Spring and walk up on top of the hill and down the other side to Harding Spring. We could not get a photo at the stairs, since a group of hipsters were busily taking photos there, but we did make the climb. Up top we passed a tree with long exposed roots and were surprised to see a deer up top at the far end of the unpaved Kansas Street. Wendy spotted a red mushroom on the short trail down to Harding Spring.

We browsed the storefronts along the various streets, stopping for treats at the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory (no, we were nowhere near the Rockies). We enjoyed them at Basin Spring Park, where a group of drummers gathers on the first Saturday of each month. I made a video of the event from ground level and also from above when Wendy and I climbed the stairs to the ridge above the basin. During our climb we giggled at the, er, vitality of the statue of Aza (which stands for Adora Zerlina Astra, or “Beloved One Created of the Stars”) which was created by Bruce Anderson.

Statue of Aza, the Celestial Goddess above Basin Spring

We wrapped up our afternoon in Eureka Springs with a walk up Center Street and then down one of the long stairways to Main Street. While returning to our car, we noticed Humpty Dumpty doing his thing. Like Aza, he was commissioned by Dan and Belinda Harriman. Their additions to downtown Eureka Springs certainly brought this pair of visitors some smiles.

Beaver Town

We left town driving north on Arkansas 23, the route my parents and I used to take back when they had a cabin 14 highway miles to the north on Table Rock Lake. We diverted onto highway 187 so that I could drive us over the one-lane wood-deck suspension bridge at Beaver, Arkansas, which locals term “The Little Golden Gate” and “The Bridge to Nostalgia”. It was fun to see her reaction to this anachronistic structure, which seems older but was actually built in 1949. We stopped to take photos and Wendy quickly spotted one of her favorite things: rose bushes, which a rather obvious sign distinguished from wildflowers.

Bridge to Nostalgia at Beaver

Poor Dinosaur World

Spider at Dinosaur Park

Making our way back to Sugar Ridge, we passed the Farwell’s still-operating Spider Creek Resort and their less successful Dinosaur World. The appalling statues there were created by the same guy who did the Christ of the Ozarks, which explains a lot. We didn’t trespass, but we did get a shot of the old spider out front and some of the decaying creatures. It remains a weird sight to drive along 187 and see very odd-looking anatomically-incorrect dinosaurs looming about the hillside.

We ended our day with hot dogs at the cabin on Sugar Ridge, relaxing on the deck as we contemplated what we might do on the next and final day of this extended weekend.

Click here for a slideshow from this day

Sugar Ridge, Day 3 >

< Sugar Ridge, Day 1

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Sugar Ridge at Beaver Lake, Day 1

June 6, 2014

For the first trip of our 2014 summer break, Wendy and I spent a long weekend at Sugar Ridge Resort on Beaver Lake in Arkansas. We usually stay at hotels on our adventures, but she had loved sharing a cabin up on Mount Nebo at the tail end of our 2014 spring break, so I booked us a romantic cabin overlooking the lake for this short vacation.

Raccoon Raiding our Bird Feeder

Wednesday’s child is full of woe, so on that day Princess lit up her CHECK ENGINE light. I was at the local AutoZone bright and early on Thursday so they could hook in their reader to tell me it was a faulty coolant thermostat. I dropped the car off with Danny Tolbert for repair and on Friday morning we left for Arkansas in Wendy’s Xanadu.

Our first stop was a quick lunch at the Full Moon Cafe on Cherry Street in Tulsa before heading down 412 to Arkansas. We stopped for dessert at the Applebee’s in Rogers so that I could see in person the mural which the restaurant owner had commissioned for its back wall; it blends together several of my photos of the area along with a few from other photographers. Below is the mural in digital form:

Applebee's Mural
Applebee’s Mural

It was fun to see in person this first known use of my photos at a restaurant. I get regular requests and occasional payments to use my photos in websites, magazines, brochures, and textbooks. The Applebee’s mural and a CD cover are the most unusual requests thus far. I was amused to see the restaurant had thanked “Greg Meador” for the use of his photos. That seemed oddly appropriate since I use “Greg” as a pseudonym when I’m making restaurant reservations: “Granger” is too unusual a first name for folks to easily process it. Does Granger Smith have this problem too?

Wendy with Angel Aloft at Pea Ridge

Our route to Beaver Lake took us by Pea Ridge battlefield, where I hiked in November 2012. Wendy was interested in seeing it in person, so we paid the $10 fee and drove around the loop to see the battlefield cannons. Wendy posed by the Angel Aloft monument, which was the first of two rather blocky statues we’d see this day.

We wound our way down to the north shore of Beaver Lake to our cabin at Sugar Ridge Resort. We were not disappointed: the view was gorgeous and we loved the big deck with its porch swing, Adirondack chairs, and bird/raccoon feeder. Later we’d find that the big indoor jacuzzi was the best we’ve used in our travels, and Wendy enjoyed using the fully equipped kitchen when we weren’t going out to eat.

The view from our deck at Sugar Ridge
Cresent Hotel Stairwell

But I had no intention of having Wendy working in the kitchen after our day’s journey and instead drove us 20 minutes east to Eureka Springs for dinner at Myrtie Mae’s. I then drove her over to the East Mountain Overlook to see the Crescent Hotel in the gloaming across the valley. She’d never been inside, so after a drive up Magnetic Mountain we went across the valley to the 1886 hotel to view the lobby and its cozy fireplace. I told her about the notorious Norman Baker, who ran a deadly “cancer clinic” at the hotel for a few years, and how back in high school my friend Jeff and I snuck into one of the penthouses to look around. Wendy and I climbed one of the great tilted creaking stairwells up to the observation deck for a sunset view of the Christ of the Ozarks statue across the valley on Magnetic Mountain.

Christ of the Ozarks from Crescent Hotel

I’ve been up Magnetic Drive dozens of times throughout my lifetime to view that weird statue and related projects, which are rather camp. I particularly enjoyed one visit years ago to the statue when the tapes of hymns by Tennessee Ernie Ford and Kate Smith were malfunctioning; the resultant warbling from the loudspeakers providing a thoroughly amusing sonic background for “our milk carton with arms“. But I was startled on this trip to discover that the statue and later projects were all by an infamous extreme-right-wing anti-Semite. Imagine his apoplectic reaction to how Eureka Springs has become the “Gay Capitol [sic] of the Ozarks“. [Ahem: in this context it would be capital, darling, not capitol.] In fact, we drove right past the town’s resort for gay men when we headed up Magnetic Drive toward the statue.

Wendy’s favorite stop was our night visit to the Grotto Spring, where we savored the cool air in the spooky grotto, thoughtfully lit by candles cared for by the city gardener, Don E. Allen. He maintains the beautiful grounds of many of the springs around town.

We returned to Sugar Ridge to sit out on the deck, where we enjoyed a visit from a raccoon, who climbed up and ensconced himself on the deck railing to raid our bird feeder. On Saturday I would take Wendy to walk at Blue Spring, tromp about Eureka Springs, and drive across the bridge to nostalgia at Beaver, Arkansas.

Raccoon Raiding our Bird Feeder

Click here for a slideshow from this day

Sugar Ridge, Day 2 >

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Why I switched to a dictionary that is over 100 years old

May 30, 2014

A definition from the 1913 Webster's

A definition from the 1913 Webster’s

Cory Doctorow at Boing Boing led me to a great blog post by James Somers about the mellifluous language found in very old editions of the famous Webster’s dictionary. He cites how the default dictionaries on the Kindle and the most widely used online dictionaries are pedestrian and uninspired, even insipid. I consider my own prose to be straightforward and functional, albeit reflecting a vocabulary expanded by my avid reading. But I can certainly recognize the wonderful rhythm and style of Edward Gibbon’s prose in his History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, and see a similar attention to prose stylings in the definitions (the definitions, for goodness sake) Somers cites in a very old edition of Webster’s.

I picked out the most recent word I looked up as a comparison; I’m reading Kurt Vonnegut’s The Sirens of Titan and “pulchritudinous” gave me pause. I knew it was something to do with beauty, but not clear on what sort of beauty it might convey.  I started with what has been my default dictionary on my Kindle Paperwhite, the Oxford Dictionary of English:

pulchritude n. [mass noun] LITERARY beauty.
<DERIVATIVES> pulchritudinous adj.
<ORIGIN> late Middle English: from Laton pulchritudo, from pulcher, pulchr- ‘beautiful’.

Well, that confirmed it was about beauty, but told me nothing more. Pitiful. Hmm…the Kindle lets me easily switch to another dictionary I installed, The New Oxford American Dictionary:

pul·chri·tude n. POETIC/LITERARY beauty.
<DERIVATIVES> pulchritudinous adj.
<ORIGIN> late Middle English: from Laton pulchritudo, from pulcher, pulchr- ‘beautiful’.

There all that I gain is syllables. So I followed Somers instructions to add the Webster’s Revised Unabridged of 1913 to my Kindle:

Pul’chri•tuden. [L. pulchritudo, fr. pulcher beautiful.]
1. That quality of appearance which pleases the eye; beauty; comeliness; grace; loveliness. “Piercing our heartes with thy pulchritude.” Court of Love.
2. Attractive moral excellence; moral beauty. “By the pulchritude of their souls make up what is wanting in the beauty of their bodies.” Ray.

Oh my, that is much better. I suppose a madman would try to use the crème de la crème of English words and meanings over time, the Oxford English Dictionary (not to be confused with the utilitarian Oxford Dictionary of English; the fascinating origin of the true OED was wonderfully told by the incomparable Simon Winchester in The Professor and the Madman).  But that would be absurdly expensive and bulky in print or even on a screen.

You can try out the 1913 edition of Webster’s online. Somers says, “Look up examplemagicsport. Look up arduoushugechauvinisticvenalpell-mellraimentsuesmarting,stereotype. Look up the word word, and look, and up. Look up every word you used today.” A little experimentation will show you what he admires; consider the elaborate guidance which comes with arduous:

Ar”du*ous (?; 135)a. [L. arduus steep, high; akin to Ir. ard high, height.]

1. Steep and lofty, in a literal sense; hard to climb.

Those arduous pats they trod. Pope.2. Attended with great labor, like the ascending of acclivities; difficult; laborious; as, an arduous employment, task, or enterprise. Syn. — Difficult; trying; laborious; painful; exhausting. — ArduousHardDifficultHard is simpler, blunter, and more general in sense than difficult; as, a hard duty to perform, hard work, a hard task, one which requires much bodily effort and perseverance to do. Difficult commonly implies more skill and sagacity than hard, as when there is disproportion between the means and the end. A work may be hard but not difficult. We call a thing arduous when it requires strenuous and persevering exertion, like that of one who is climbing a precipice; as, an arduous task, an arduous duty. It is often difficult to control our feelings; it is still harder to subdue our will; but it is an arduous undertaking to control the unruly and contending will of others.”

So I have made the 1913 Webster’s my new default dictionary on my Kindle, which lets me switch to one of the Oxfords or use Wikipedia if a definition is not present in the 101-year-old tome. Don’t settle for something newer, however. Note how disappointed I was in the modern but minimalist Oxford Dictionary of English; using a more modern Webster’s probably would not help much. “Webster’s” on a dictionary title means very little since Noah Webster and his copyrights both expired so very long ago. My anachronistic print dictionary beside my computer is Webster’s New World Dictionary, Second College Edition of 1986 by Prentice Hall/Simon & Schuster, and has little relationship to the 19th century Webster dictionaries. It is just as minimalist as the Oxford Dictionary of English. Buying a Webster’s from Merriam-Webster might help, but their online definition of pulchritude was just as pathetic:

pul·chri·tude noun \ˈpəl-krə-ˌtüd, –ˌtyüd\
:  physical comeliness
— pul·chri·tu·di·nous \ˌpəl-krə-ˈtüd-nəs, –ˈtyüd-; –ˈtü-dən-əs, –ˈtyü-\ adjective

Oh no. Webster’s 1913, please!

 

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