Winter Break Trip 2013, Day 1: The Cliffs of Waco

December 26, 2013

Last week Wendy and I drove south through foggy and snowy fields and past the fog-shrouded skyscrapers in downtown Tulsa to spend Christmas with my folks in Oklahoma City. The next day we drove farther south, intending to spend a week in the warmer climes of Texas after a bout of snow and ice in Bartlesville which closed out the first semester of the school year.

The highlight of our first day in Texas was hiking along the cliffs above the Bosque River in Waco’s Cameron Park. The park is laced with various trails. We parked at Lover’s Leap and walked along the cliff face, 90 feet above the Bosque River, thankfully feeling no urge to take a leap.

Waco Cliffs (click image for slideshow)

Cameron Park Drive was closed for resurfacing, so we could not drive east to Emmons Cliff, so we walked along the road to view the river from there and took the short Drain Pipe bike trail on the return to Lover’s Leap.

Our vacation would begin in earnest the following day with long walks at Pedernales Falls and enjoying dinner with long-time friends in Austin. We would then spend four days in San Antonio before returning north to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Fort Worth.

Winter Break Trip to Texas

Click here for a slideshow from this day

Day 2: Pedernales Falls >

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New Blazes at Osage Hills

December 14, 2013

I have hiked at Osage Hills State Park over two dozen times since 2009, exploring every trail and steadily mapping them with my iPhone’s MotionX GPS app.  The state tourism department asked for a copy of my map for their website, which I happily provided, but the trails at Osage Hills slowly evolve and this weekend I found a welcome improvement.

Osage Trail and Bike Trails

I showed Wendy the main hiking trail loop in the park, also known as the Bugle Trail, earlier this year. But she had never been on the mountain bike/hiking trails in the eastern portion of the park. So we hiked 3.25 miles along the red bike trail loop, despite temperatures in the 40s and somewhat muddy trails after recent snow, ice, and rain. We journeyed counterclockwise and, after we forded the stream to join the main trail heading south, I was surprised to see fresh trail blazes adorning the trees.

This blog entry says the mountain bike trails at Osage Hills were built by the Bartlesville Pedaler’s club around 1999-2000, and the Adventure Bicycle Center has worked on them since then. All of the trails follow or parallel at least a portion of the Osage Trail, which was built back in 1999 by Robbie Ashe and fellow Bartlesville Troop 3 Boy Scouts, leading north from Camp McClintock into the state park, following portions of the path the Osage Indians followed from Bartlesville to Pawhuska.

The Osage Trail had round red metal discs affixed to trees, several of which are still up. The bike trails had wooden posts for guidance at junctions, but most of them have fallen over.  A few color-coded plastic bike trail tree blazes are still up, but a newcomer to the trail system would still find it quite confusing without a map.

One of the new blazes (click image for slideshow)

I’m much better at making maps than trail blazes, so I’m glad to see someone has painted gold scout emblem blazes along the Osage Trail and red and blue bike emblem blazes along portions of the bike trails. Maybe this was another Scout project? I noticed that they diverted the Osage Trail along one section, shifting it westward onto a parallel trail, so I updated my map to show both routes in yellow. And some months ago I noticed someone had constructed a new short bike trail loop off the red loop, so I added that to my map with dashed lines.

12/21/2013 UPDATE:Bikers have formed a new parallel path west of the cabin loop hiking trail’s eastern side, and I have added that to my map.

The northern junction where the blue and white trails diverge eastward from the red trail is still not blazed and I don’t think the new blazes clarify the blue and white trails, but they are a great addition to the park. I’m very grateful to have about 11 miles of good trails only a short drive west of town, to go along with the wonderful Pathfinder Parkway trail system here in town, which I’ve also enjoyed mapping. The city website links to my Google map of the Pathfinder system.

Osage Hills Park Trails

This weekend we found the Osage Trail a bit muddy, with many imprints from dogs, hikers, and a few deer. Ice filled the small pools beside the trail, including the grotto pool, and I had fun acting like a little boy, pulling some out and throwing it about.

Click here for photos from this day hike

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Black Friday in Charon’s Garden

November 29, 2013

Thanksgiving Break Travels (click image for slideshow)

Wendy and I spent Thanksgiving Day with my parents in Oklahoma City, with a sunset walk at Lake Overholser. We spent Black Friday hiking in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, preferring that over braving the throngs of bargain hunters at the stores. We wrapped up the break with tours of the Sam Noble Museum of Natural History in Norman and the Oklahoma History Center at the state capitol complex.

Lake Overholser

Wendy and I walked off some of my mother’s Thanksgiving feast with a walk along the dam and eastern bank of Lake Overholser.  The lake has about 600 surface acres, but an average depth of only six feet and its deepest point is only 13 feet down, but there is a 60 foot fall-off beyond the eastern end of the dam, which is over 1,200 feet long.

We first walked the length of the dam and back, passing over the long series of spillways with birds wheeling about overhead. After sunset, the lamps added to the dam in the late 1990s were lit, and the darkening sky silhouetted an old spillway control wheel.

Wendy’s lovely shot of Lake Overholser Dam

As the sun set, we walked north along the embankment which forms a channel along the lakes’ eastern shore, enjoying views west across the lake and south towards the dam and its spillway control house.

Charon’s Garden Wilderness

Black Friday found us hiking in the Charon’s Garden Wilderness, a rugged mountainous area in the western part of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge near Lawton. In keeping with the area’s 1970 wilderness designation, trails there are unmarked and not maintained. I first hiked the southern portion of the Charon’s Garden Trail back in November 2010 with Quincy Amen, completing the trail the next February along with the Elk Mountain Trail. Charon’s Garden is the most challenging trail in the refuge, but Wendy was up to it, scrambling with me across the rough terrain and enduring the inevitable scratches and cuts from the granite boulders.

Charon’s Garden Hike

We arrived at the Sunset Pool trailhead about noon and headed west along the creek. I couldn’t remember where to strike south uphill from the creek bed for the unmarked trail, so we overshot the turn about 0.1 mile, but then backtracked and made our way around the northeast side of Elk Mountain, which was dotted with snow, especially on the shadowed north face.

Apple and Pear

We passed a hillside of trees covered in different shades of red and orange leaves, soon climbing through one of the most scenic stretches of trail up to where the Apple and Pear formations hove into view high above us.  Soon we would reach a large boulder field, and a family of hikers asked us if we knew where the cave was. I knew of Spanish Cave and Wind Cave (aka Bat Cave), although I’ve never been to either one, but neither of them is anywhere close to the boulder field. So I couldn’t help them, although later I wondered if they meant the “rooms” below the boulders where you can roam about.

We reached the field of room-sized boulders, the top of which yields a beautiful vista to the south. I struggled to recall how I had crossed the boulders previously. I tried going straight through, but the huge gaps between the high boulders made that too perilous, and I knew a hiker died out here some years back. So I led us up the east side of the canyon, but again the way seemed too fraught with peril. But I could see how the trail coming up from the south led up the west side of the boulder field. So we scrambled down and across, using trees and rock edges to pull ourselves up and along the western edge of the boulder field, straddling one “bridge” boulder to make it over to the rest of the trail. Wendy and I each collected our share of cuts and scrapes, but we made it.

We paused to rest at Post Oak Creek where a side canyon leads east to where the Bonanza Mine was sunk over 100 years ago. The shaft eventually ran over 80 feet into the mountain until a lead seam pinched out and the mine was abandoned. Someday I will locate that old mine, but this was not the day for it.

We proceeded south along the creek to what I call “The Slot” — where the creek drives through a section of granite walls and a tiny waterfall connects two pools. We carefully scooted along the western side of the falls across the smooth slick rock and then the trail broke away from the creek to climb a hillside for a view of Treasure Lake to the southeast.

I led us over to the lake shore and then we climbed up toward the south trailhead, pausing for Wendy to shoot a pool in the rocks above the lake and for me to shoot a panorama.

Above Treasure Lake

We rested beside Post Oak Lake and then retraced our steps, with a detour at one point as I satisfied my curiosity about a side trail, finding it was an alternate route southward to Post Oak Lake. Wendy formed a snowball but spared me as we trekked northward through The Slot and past the perilous boulder field, rewarded with a late afternoon sunlit view of the Apple and Pear.

As we came down the hillside, Wendy carved our initials in the snow, signifying that she had enjoyed our strenuous six mile hike. We tried to eat dinner at Meers, but it was overcrowded and we opted for comfort food at the Riverside Cafe in Medicine Park.

Sam Noble Museum of Natural History

Buffalo Hunt, They Throw Their Hearts on the Plains

On Saturday we toured the Sam Noble Museum at the University of Oklahoma in Norman, intent on seeing some Spiro Mounds artifacts after our visit to the mounds themselves a few weeks ago. There were ear spools, pipes, and pottery fragments. We again noted the similarity of the pottery designs to Mayan and Aztec work, enjoying a recreation of a conch shell artifact next to a matching fragment. We were surprised to see quartz arrowpoints from another site, and admired the extensive beadwork on various Native American artifacts.

We enjoyed the various natural science exhibits, but what impressed me most was the temporary exhibit, Masterworks of Native American Art: Selections from the Fred and Enid Brown Collection. There were some splendid paintings, such as Rhythmic Reflections, Regalia & Song and Prayer for the Return of Bees by Yatika Starr Fields, an untitled work by Raymond Succo, and the vivid circular Buffalo Hunt, They Throw Their Hearts on the Plains by Parker Boyiddle Jr. I didn’t care for the Dali-esque surrealism of Robert Lee Taylor‘s The Souls of the Mountain: The Dance of Life, but I admired the dancing motion he captured.

Oklahoma History Center

After the Noble Museum, the Oklahoma History Center by the state capitol was underwhelming, with me very distracted by the foyer being set up for a reception, despite the discreet workers. Wendy loved seeing props from the movie Twister and was amused by the gruesome special effect heads by Steve LaPorte, while I liked seeing the Gemini 6 capsule and its scarred heat shield.

For this break spent with my parents and my adventurous sweetheart, I was truly thankful.

Click here for a slideshow from this trip

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Autumn Loop at Redbud Valley

November 17, 2013

Wendy and I enjoyed a 1.3 mile stroll at Redbud Valley and then walked at Woodward Park on a warm autumn day.

Redbud Valley (click image for slideshow)

Depth of Field

Tulsa Skyline from Woodward Park

 

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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Rough Canyon Loop at Robbers Cave

November 9, 2013

Rough Canyon Trail Loop (click image for slideshow)

Tumbling leaves are dispersing peak autumn colors, so Wendy and I joined Betty and John Henderson for a drive back to Kiamichi Country, the southeastern corner of Oklahoma known as Little Dixie, to hike 3.2 miles around the Rough Canyon Loop at Robbers Cave State Park.

Our latest day trip

My car is out of the shop with a new wheel bearing, but the tires are cupped. I had one wheel rebalanced awhile back and the car has a fresh alignment, but on my next tire rotation I’ll ask them to inspect the shocks and struts. Meanwhile, the crankshaft on Wendy’s car has a failing harmonic balancer. So we were grateful to John for driving Betty’s 2012 Camry on our expedition.

We picked up sandwiches at a QuikTrip, with me delightfully snacking on a warm soft cinnamon pretzel at the Generation 3 store we visited. I don’t particularly like the layout of those new stores, but they do have those pretzels! We reached the trailhead at Robbers Cave itself a bit after noon and headed west towards Rough Canyon.

Wendy delighted in the multicolored leaves on many trees as we walked on the step-like tree roots past Fourche Maline creek (pronounced “foosh-ma-lean” and referring to the “Treacherous Fork” of the Poteau River). A shower of red leaves across the trail was a welcome sight. We climbed the hillside past rock ledges and fallen trees, the trail decorated in autumn colors that were quite beautiful and painterly.

Wendy and the Hendersons paid attention to the various mushrooms along the way, with Wendy searching for puffballs; some of the larger toadstools attracted my gaze. We reached Rough Canyon and took pictures of each other at the sign, with Betty having her usual fun. We then turned north to follow the eastern edge of the rocky stream, with autumn colors nestled amidst evergreens.

Rough Canyon colors

I always love to bushwhack along the rocky ledges in the creek, and found a spot where we could ease our way down to the pools and ledges for lunch. Wendy and I sprawled out on a soft mossy ledge while the Hendersons found a convenient edge of ledge for sitting. After enjoying my half of a delicious Turkey and Swiss on Berry Wheat sandwich, I looked at the leaves in the water streaming across the ledges while John located a side spring, Betty delighted in a large crawdad and fed the fish in a large pool, and Wendy celebrated the peaceful surroundings.

Leafy pools

After that lovely break, we set off eastward toward Lost Lake. Even the trail surface is quite picturesque at this time of year, with beauty underfoot. We saw many more fungi along the way and the cameras were out in full force to capture the autumn beauty at Lost Lake. Wendy sat on the dam to capture the reflections across the water, while I took my shots from the lakeside.

Following the “People Trail”

We saw more enormous toadstools as we wound our way back to the cave area, including a coral mushroom spotted and shot by sharp-eyed Wendy, who also found a tiny tree frog, so small my camera couldn’t grab focus before he hopped away. We took the “People Trail” to the cave area, where Wendy and Betty relaxed while I took John up to the cave, which he had not visited previously.

The rocky hilly trail made the 3.2 mile trek seem longer and we were grateful when John drove us to Giacomo’s in McAlester for an Italian feast and interrupted the drive home with a stop for ice cream in Okmulgee. I am very glad we made the long journey south for more Kiamichi Country colors, but after two long day trips on consecutive Saturdays I think my next day hike will be much closer to home.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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