Winter Break Trip 2013, Day 3: San José Mission & River Walk

December 28, 2013

This day was spent in downtown San Antonio with a visit to the Mission San José, (aka the Mission San José y San Miguel de Aguayo) and a circumnavigation of and dinner along the Paseo del Rio, the famous River Walk, with brief stops in front of the Alamo (aka the Mission San Antonio de Valero), and at the downtown Cathedral of San Fernando (aka the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria y Guadalupe).

Mission San José (click image for slideshow)

A Rough Start

Since we drove into town very late the day before, we got off to a late start and missed the hotel breakfast, which was just as well given the offerings we sampled the next day. We wanted to see a mission and knew the Alamo would be packed on a Saturday, so I drove us south toward the largest of the San Antonio missions, the Mission San José. I tried to find brunch in the area, but one quality Mexican food place had a long line and another we stopped at was unappealing.  So we drove along Military Drive and settled in for a long wait at a table at Applebee’s, but despite inquiries never were served, prompting me to leave with a complaint lodged with the hostess. We finally plopped down at a nearby Denny’s for a late breakfast after wrestling with frustrating traffic on Military Drive.

Mission San José

Thankfully the rest of the day went better, starting with a walk about the Mission San José. Founded in 1720, the mission was named for Saint Joseph and the Marqués de San Miguel de Aguayo, the governor of the Province of Coahuila and Texas at the time. It was built on the banks of the San Antonio River several miles south of the earlier mission, the San Antonio de Valero (the Alamo), and eventually had about 350 Indian neophytes. Over the centuries it fell into ruin, but was rebuilt in the 1930s by the Works Progress Administration, and had a recent multimillion dollar interior and exterior facelift.

We saw the one-room deep Indian Quarters built into the mission walls to protect occupants from attacks from other Native Americans outside the walls. We had a good view of the 1782 chapel and 1755 convento, the latter being the residence for the missionary and lodging for visitors.

The south side of the chapel features the decorative carvings around the Rose Window (the area of the wall recently cleaned in the photo) and a barred doorway onto a spiral staircase. A fellow tourist remarked how as a child he used to climb up those stairs back when they were open.

The chapel was closed for a wedding, but we could admire the recently restored frontispiece, and saw the bride’s attendants and later the bride herself outside the chapel. After viewing the north side of the chapel and convento, we completed our walk around the perimeter of the mission and went back to the hotel to prepare for an evening on the River Walk.

Alamo Plaza and River Walk

Our hotel was located just east of I-30, which meant we were several blocks from the Alamo and the River Walk, but our pick was considerably cheaper than closer hotels. There is colorful LED lighting at night on the Houston Street underpass, making it a welcome route to and from our hotel. We walked to Alamo Plaza and admired the big Christmas tree out front, later returning so I could shoot photos of Wendy in front of the famous mission and the big tree.

Wendy at The Alamo

We walked over to Commerce Street and descended to the River Walk, walking north and then west through the crowds. I was sad that we did not find the pet duck I’d seen last spring wandering the aisles at the five and dime, and Wendy was glad to exit the hustle and bustle when we reached the San Antonio River.

San Fernando Cathedral

We ascended to the main plaza, amused by the tools and gears embedded in the walkway. We walked westward to the oldest, continuously functioning religious community in the State of Texas: the Cathedral of San Fernando, which was founded in 1731. We ventured inside to listen to music rehearsal, and then made our way back to the River Walk.

Casa Rio

Dining at Casa Rio

The quieter walk eastward on the southern leg of the River Walk burst into life when we reached the Arneson amphitheatre at the La Villita Historic Arts Village. Wendy and I are not sports fans, so we did not grasp that it was the Oregon Ducks’ and Texas Longhorns’ bands in town for the Valero Alamo Bowl, but slithered through the crowds to reach the historic Casa Rio restaurant.

There we got a riverside table and enjoyed the delicious Mexican food, with me eagerly paying the Mariachi band to perform a tune for us.

As we ate, darkness brought out the beautiful lights along the River Walk, with my iPhone creating interesting artifacts.  We laughed when both the Ducks’ and the Longhorns’ bands floated by on river taxis, playing up a storm.

The River Walk at Night

We returned to the hotel via the Rivercenter mall. The next day would be spent in art museums since the weather was inhospitable for hiking.

Click here for a slideshow from this day

Day 4: Art in San Antonio >

< Day 2: Pedernales Falls

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Winter Break Trip 2013, Day 2: Pedernales Falls

December 27, 2013

Thirty miles west of downtown Austin the Pedernales River cuts through the hill country, dropping 50 feet over a distance of 3,000 feet, forming a series of cascades across a tilted layer of 300-million-year-old Marble Falls Limestone. The low waterfalls and numerous fluvial slots and potholes attract throngs of people to stroll across the rocks and enjoy the fascinating scenery. The falls were part of the Circle Bar Ranch, which was acquired by the state of Texas in 1970 and developed and expanded into a state park.

Pedernales Falls (click image for slideshow)

Wendy and I were charged $6 each to enter the park. We headed straight to the falls area, where we parked and walked down the trail to the overlook. Dozens of folks were milling about the riverbed, which went dry back in 2009 and 2011. The drought has lifted a bit, and the spring-fed river had some flow for our visit; it has been known to flash into a raging torrent.

Pedernales Falls from the overlook

We took the east fork of the trail leading down from the overlook to the eastern edge of the falls, where the river cuts through narrow slots in a broad plane of marble limestone. We followed a trail of rock dust deposited on the limestone by hikers’ footwear to the lumpy limestone riverbed.

Pedernales River slot

There were potholes both large and small, formed when rock clasts get caught up in whirlpools and cut through the limestone. The river cascading down from higher falls roared through deep slots in the rock, wriggling its way eastward. A large boulder wedged in one slot testified to the power of the flash floods. Wendy captured a shot of me relaxing by a slot, with my customary trail drink, an Orange Fanta. She was fascinated by the unusual textures of the rock surfaces throughout the falls area, which had potholesgrooves, craters, breccia, karst, gashes, and dimples. We climbed to one of the large pools, where I reclined for a low shot across the water. Wendy posed for me beside a low fall, and we climbed back up to the overlook to take the more difficult west trail fork across rough terrain to the higher falls. The hillside across the river here had scenic erosion with mottled rocks, a cliffside hole partially plugged by a boulder, and water-filled clefts. Upstream we posed for a shot, Wendy found a rock bathtub, and there were more waterfalls with longer drops. The gouged limestone and pools created a very different landscape, as did the yucca plants by the riverside and the white lichen. After we spent a couple of hours exploring the falls area, I consulted the park map. Wendy laughed at my typical pose with my spectacles dangling from my mouth, since I cannot read anymore with them on. I discovered a few weeks ago why I’ve struggled for years with these lenses, despite them being purchased as my first set of progressive bifocals. They are NOT bifocals; the optical house screwed up! I feel pretty stupid for not realizing this much sooner, and hopefully new lenses will help me with this annoyance.

Twin Falls

I chose to drive us over to the Twin Falls Nature Trail to hike that short but steep loop. We ducked under a large tree and wound our way down the hillside, encountering two young ladies who were hurriedly attaching balloons to bushes along the path. They excused themselves, explaining that they were preparing the trail for their sister’s engagement down at the overlook. We found their decorations all the way to the overlook, where we spied flowers awaiting the happy couple, and carefully arranged stones down below the pretty little waterfalls. We then climbed back to the road, encountering the happy couple just starting their way down the trail. The groom-to-be asked if this was the Twin Falls Trail. I replied that it was and we hoped they enjoyed it. He gave me a knowing grin as they departed; I am certain they enjoyed their walk! We wrapped up our time at the park with a walk down to Trammell’s Crossing, a rocky ford on the Pedernales. Down at the riverbank we found some photogenic trees, including a stump which formed a nice heart frame for my sweetie. We wrapped up the day with dinner at the Salt Lick in Austin, provided by long-time friends Joe and Bama Falkner, who have retired there. Joe was on the Bartlesville school board back when I was looking for my first teaching job. When the physics job opened up at the high school a few weeks before school started, Joe mentioned to the high school principal that his younger brother’s friend from high school and college just happened to be looking for such a position. A quarter century on, I’m still grateful how that tip led to an interview which launched my happy teaching career in Bartlesville.

We loved Pedernales Falls

After dinner and fellowship with Joe and Bama, Wendy and I headed to San Antonio for what turned out to be a four-day stay.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

Day 3: San José Mission & River Walk >

< Day 1: The Cliffs of Waco

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Winter Break Trip 2013, Day 1: The Cliffs of Waco

December 26, 2013

Last week Wendy and I drove south through foggy and snowy fields and past the fog-shrouded skyscrapers in downtown Tulsa to spend Christmas with my folks in Oklahoma City. The next day we drove farther south, intending to spend a week in the warmer climes of Texas after a bout of snow and ice in Bartlesville which closed out the first semester of the school year.

The highlight of our first day in Texas was hiking along the cliffs above the Bosque River in Waco’s Cameron Park. The park is laced with various trails. We parked at Lover’s Leap and walked along the cliff face, 90 feet above the Bosque River, thankfully feeling no urge to take a leap.

Waco Cliffs (click image for slideshow)

Cameron Park Drive was closed for resurfacing, so we could not drive east to Emmons Cliff, so we walked along the road to view the river from there and took the short Drain Pipe bike trail on the return to Lover’s Leap.

Our vacation would begin in earnest the following day with long walks at Pedernales Falls and enjoying dinner with long-time friends in Austin. We would then spend four days in San Antonio before returning north to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Fort Worth.

Winter Break Trip to Texas

Click here for a slideshow from this day

Day 2: Pedernales Falls >

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New Blazes at Osage Hills

December 14, 2013

I have hiked at Osage Hills State Park over two dozen times since 2009, exploring every trail and steadily mapping them with my iPhone’s MotionX GPS app.  The state tourism department asked for a copy of my map for their website, which I happily provided, but the trails at Osage Hills slowly evolve and this weekend I found a welcome improvement.

Osage Trail and Bike Trails

I showed Wendy the main hiking trail loop in the park, also known as the Bugle Trail, earlier this year. But she had never been on the mountain bike/hiking trails in the eastern portion of the park. So we hiked 3.25 miles along the red bike trail loop, despite temperatures in the 40s and somewhat muddy trails after recent snow, ice, and rain. We journeyed counterclockwise and, after we forded the stream to join the main trail heading south, I was surprised to see fresh trail blazes adorning the trees.

This blog entry says the mountain bike trails at Osage Hills were built by the Bartlesville Pedaler’s club around 1999-2000, and the Adventure Bicycle Center has worked on them since then. All of the trails follow or parallel at least a portion of the Osage Trail, which was built back in 1999 by Robbie Ashe and fellow Bartlesville Troop 3 Boy Scouts, leading north from Camp McClintock into the state park, following portions of the path the Osage Indians followed from Bartlesville to Pawhuska.

The Osage Trail had round red metal discs affixed to trees, several of which are still up. The bike trails had wooden posts for guidance at junctions, but most of them have fallen over.  A few color-coded plastic bike trail tree blazes are still up, but a newcomer to the trail system would still find it quite confusing without a map.

One of the new blazes (click image for slideshow)

I’m much better at making maps than trail blazes, so I’m glad to see someone has painted gold scout emblem blazes along the Osage Trail and red and blue bike emblem blazes along portions of the bike trails. Maybe this was another Scout project? I noticed that they diverted the Osage Trail along one section, shifting it westward onto a parallel trail, so I updated my map to show both routes in yellow. And some months ago I noticed someone had constructed a new short bike trail loop off the red loop, so I added that to my map with dashed lines.

12/21/2013 UPDATE:Bikers have formed a new parallel path west of the cabin loop hiking trail’s eastern side, and I have added that to my map.

The northern junction where the blue and white trails diverge eastward from the red trail is still not blazed and I don’t think the new blazes clarify the blue and white trails, but they are a great addition to the park. I’m very grateful to have about 11 miles of good trails only a short drive west of town, to go along with the wonderful Pathfinder Parkway trail system here in town, which I’ve also enjoyed mapping. The city website links to my Google map of the Pathfinder system.

Osage Hills Park Trails

This weekend we found the Osage Trail a bit muddy, with many imprints from dogs, hikers, and a few deer. Ice filled the small pools beside the trail, including the grotto pool, and I had fun acting like a little boy, pulling some out and throwing it about.

Click here for photos from this day hike

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Black Friday in Charon’s Garden

November 29, 2013

Thanksgiving Break Travels (click image for slideshow)

Wendy and I spent Thanksgiving Day with my parents in Oklahoma City, with a sunset walk at Lake Overholser. We spent Black Friday hiking in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, preferring that over braving the throngs of bargain hunters at the stores. We wrapped up the break with tours of the Sam Noble Museum of Natural History in Norman and the Oklahoma History Center at the state capitol complex.

Lake Overholser

Wendy and I walked off some of my mother’s Thanksgiving feast with a walk along the dam and eastern bank of Lake Overholser.  The lake has about 600 surface acres, but an average depth of only six feet and its deepest point is only 13 feet down, but there is a 60 foot fall-off beyond the eastern end of the dam, which is over 1,200 feet long.

We first walked the length of the dam and back, passing over the long series of spillways with birds wheeling about overhead. After sunset, the lamps added to the dam in the late 1990s were lit, and the darkening sky silhouetted an old spillway control wheel.

Wendy’s lovely shot of Lake Overholser Dam

As the sun set, we walked north along the embankment which forms a channel along the lakes’ eastern shore, enjoying views west across the lake and south towards the dam and its spillway control house.

Charon’s Garden Wilderness

Black Friday found us hiking in the Charon’s Garden Wilderness, a rugged mountainous area in the western part of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge near Lawton. In keeping with the area’s 1970 wilderness designation, trails there are unmarked and not maintained. I first hiked the southern portion of the Charon’s Garden Trail back in November 2010 with Quincy Amen, completing the trail the next February along with the Elk Mountain Trail. Charon’s Garden is the most challenging trail in the refuge, but Wendy was up to it, scrambling with me across the rough terrain and enduring the inevitable scratches and cuts from the granite boulders.

Charon’s Garden Hike

We arrived at the Sunset Pool trailhead about noon and headed west along the creek. I couldn’t remember where to strike south uphill from the creek bed for the unmarked trail, so we overshot the turn about 0.1 mile, but then backtracked and made our way around the northeast side of Elk Mountain, which was dotted with snow, especially on the shadowed north face.

Apple and Pear

We passed a hillside of trees covered in different shades of red and orange leaves, soon climbing through one of the most scenic stretches of trail up to where the Apple and Pear formations hove into view high above us.  Soon we would reach a large boulder field, and a family of hikers asked us if we knew where the cave was. I knew of Spanish Cave and Wind Cave (aka Bat Cave), although I’ve never been to either one, but neither of them is anywhere close to the boulder field. So I couldn’t help them, although later I wondered if they meant the “rooms” below the boulders where you can roam about.

We reached the field of room-sized boulders, the top of which yields a beautiful vista to the south. I struggled to recall how I had crossed the boulders previously. I tried going straight through, but the huge gaps between the high boulders made that too perilous, and I knew a hiker died out here some years back. So I led us up the east side of the canyon, but again the way seemed too fraught with peril. But I could see how the trail coming up from the south led up the west side of the boulder field. So we scrambled down and across, using trees and rock edges to pull ourselves up and along the western edge of the boulder field, straddling one “bridge” boulder to make it over to the rest of the trail. Wendy and I each collected our share of cuts and scrapes, but we made it.

We paused to rest at Post Oak Creek where a side canyon leads east to where the Bonanza Mine was sunk over 100 years ago. The shaft eventually ran over 80 feet into the mountain until a lead seam pinched out and the mine was abandoned. Someday I will locate that old mine, but this was not the day for it.

We proceeded south along the creek to what I call “The Slot” — where the creek drives through a section of granite walls and a tiny waterfall connects two pools. We carefully scooted along the western side of the falls across the smooth slick rock and then the trail broke away from the creek to climb a hillside for a view of Treasure Lake to the southeast.

I led us over to the lake shore and then we climbed up toward the south trailhead, pausing for Wendy to shoot a pool in the rocks above the lake and for me to shoot a panorama.

Above Treasure Lake

We rested beside Post Oak Lake and then retraced our steps, with a detour at one point as I satisfied my curiosity about a side trail, finding it was an alternate route southward to Post Oak Lake. Wendy formed a snowball but spared me as we trekked northward through The Slot and past the perilous boulder field, rewarded with a late afternoon sunlit view of the Apple and Pear.

As we came down the hillside, Wendy carved our initials in the snow, signifying that she had enjoyed our strenuous six mile hike. We tried to eat dinner at Meers, but it was overcrowded and we opted for comfort food at the Riverside Cafe in Medicine Park.

Sam Noble Museum of Natural History

Buffalo Hunt, They Throw Their Hearts on the Plains

On Saturday we toured the Sam Noble Museum at the University of Oklahoma in Norman, intent on seeing some Spiro Mounds artifacts after our visit to the mounds themselves a few weeks ago. There were ear spools, pipes, and pottery fragments. We again noted the similarity of the pottery designs to Mayan and Aztec work, enjoying a recreation of a conch shell artifact next to a matching fragment. We were surprised to see quartz arrowpoints from another site, and admired the extensive beadwork on various Native American artifacts.

We enjoyed the various natural science exhibits, but what impressed me most was the temporary exhibit, Masterworks of Native American Art: Selections from the Fred and Enid Brown Collection. There were some splendid paintings, such as Rhythmic Reflections, Regalia & Song and Prayer for the Return of Bees by Yatika Starr Fields, an untitled work by Raymond Succo, and the vivid circular Buffalo Hunt, They Throw Their Hearts on the Plains by Parker Boyiddle Jr. I didn’t care for the Dali-esque surrealism of Robert Lee Taylor‘s The Souls of the Mountain: The Dance of Life, but I admired the dancing motion he captured.

Oklahoma History Center

After the Noble Museum, the Oklahoma History Center by the state capitol was underwhelming, with me very distracted by the foyer being set up for a reception, despite the discreet workers. Wendy loved seeing props from the movie Twister and was amused by the gruesome special effect heads by Steve LaPorte, while I liked seeing the Gemini 6 capsule and its scarred heat shield.

For this break spent with my parents and my adventurous sweetheart, I was truly thankful.

Click here for a slideshow from this trip

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