Sojourn at Sulphur

October 17-18, 2013

Wendy and I began our Fall Break 2013 on Thursday with lunch with my folks in Oklahoma City and then a leisurely drive south down old Highway 77 through Norman, Noble, Purcell, Wayne, Paoli (where we stopped at the graveyard where my maternal grandparents and an aunt are buried), Pauls Valley (we arrived too late to enter the Action Figure Museum, darn it), Wynnewood, Davis, and finally reached our destination for the evening: Sulphur.

Lincoln Bridge (click image for slideshow)

Our first stop in Sulphur was where I always take first-time visitors to the town: the stinky Vendome Well, which has been spewing sulphur water up out of the ground since 1922. Wendy refused to drink any of the “medicinal water” and I regretted the brief splash I took across my tongue, but we enjoyed walking in the old Flower Garden area over to Lincoln Bridge, where we admired the stream and nearby waterfall. Then we made our way over to Broadway and 1st Street where the new Artesian Hotel anchors the park’s main entrance.

The Artesian

The Artesian is a new version of the historic hotel which operated here from 1906 until it burned in 1962. Developed by the Chickasaw Nation, it sports a beautiful interior extending from the lobby through all of the floors and rooms, including the glamorous Hollywood Suite I’d reserved for us by phone for less than $200 on a weeknight, a great deal on a very nice room.  (Come on, Chickasaws! Get your online booking working for this great hotel!)

The hotel’s Springs restaurant served a great dinner, and the Hollywood Suite has a dining area and sitting room, bedroom, and enormous bathroom with glittering tiles, a two-person jacuzzi tub, and glass-walled shower. Wendy and I were more impressed with the bedroom’s long corner window seats than the oversized television, and on Friday we used them to admire the heavy but beautiful morning sky over the park.

The sky forebode rain, but we ventured out to the park to the Bromide Springs area to hike up the massive conglomerate rock pile of Bromide Hill in our rain gear. From the hillside we could see the hotel poking out above the trees. We gazed from the overlook and then made our way back down amidst a heavier rain shower, which brought our short hike to an end.

I drove us over to the Little Niagara swimming hole only to find it empty. We posed in our respective umbrellas atop the dry dam; as usual, Wendy looked much more stylish than yours truly. Displays at the nearby nature center explained that starting in 2009 the springs went dry after over 25 years of continuous flow, but periods of no flow have occurred repeatedly over the past century.

Hillside Spring

We admired the animals on display, including a small frog and some snakes. I bought a book about the golden age of the Park Service’s rustic architecture, and then we made our last stop at the park at Hillside Spring. Wendy posed for me beside the spring, and then took a great shot of its flow with her iPhone.

Clearing skies as we drove out of town led me to stop at the Chickasaw Cultural Center. The tribe spent six years and $40 million on the 109 acre facility, which opened in 2010. We liked the statues of a Chickasaw Warrior by Enoch Kelly Haney and Arrival by Mike Larsen, which had several nice features, including contrasting figures looking forward to the new lands in Oklahoma and back at the former ones in Mississippi and Alabama.

We enjoyed walking around the Honor Garden and the Chikasha Inchokka’, a recreation of a Mississippi homelands settlement. The Chikasha Poya (“We are Chickasaw”) Exhibit Center had a large Spirit Forest exhibit and beautiful mosaic with tiles imported from the Scoula Mosaicisti Del Friuli in Spilimbergo, Italy.

The day closed with a delicious dinner at Cafe Alley in downtown Ardmore along our journey southeast to Tyler, Texas for their annual Rose Festival. I’ll document that event in the next post.

Click here for a slideshow from this part of Fall Break 2013

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I Fled to Philbrook

October 13, 2013

This Sunday, per usual, I had plenty of laundry and grading to do. But I needed a break, so I dashed away to spend an afternoon hour at Philbrook Museum in Tulsa, strolling through the gardens with my camera.

Philbrook Gardens (click image for slideshow)

Click here for a slideshow from this day trip

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Greenleaf Trail in Early Autumn

October 6, 2013
Click image for slideshow

Greenleaf Lake (click image for slideshow)

A Sunday with a high around 70 lured Wendy and me 111 miles southeast to Greenleaf State Park to hike the first portion of the hiking trail there. On our way south we stopped in Tulsa for lunch at the Texas Roadhouse and to buy books at Gardner’s.

Instead of parking along the abandoned road east of the Highway 10 bridge, as I’d done previously, we started out from the official trailhead in the state park, making our way south and west through the woods to the old dam and spillway, where we enjoyed a snack and posed for a pic.

Then we crossed the Highway 10 bridge, disgusted by the armadillo road kill strewn about. The trail blazes are fading out, so we had to scrounge a bit along the abandoned roads east of the bridge to find the trail leading along the lake shore over to the swinging bridge, where the side fence was covered with spider strands, flung out in the breeze.

Swinging Bridge

Wendy is still getting used to longer hikes, so we turned around at that point, making our way back across the bridge.  I couldn’t resist giving the old bridge a good shake while she was mid-span…what a stinker!  We found some variety by diverging onto an old road for part of the return journey and ended up hiking 5.25 miles, the longest day hike for Wendy thus far and closing in on my typical day hike of 6 to 7 miles.

Back at the park, we admired deer and turkeys snacking and strutting their way across the grass near the marina. It was great to be hiking in autumn weather, even if the colors have yet to turn.

Weary but happy, we made our way back home, stopping along the way for a delicious and well-earned dinner at El Chico.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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Walking the Katy in Cleveland

September 29, 2013

Cleveland Trail Daytrip (click map for slideshow)

A week after the autumnal equinox, Wendy and I decided to take advantage of seasonal weather for our first out-of-town hike since we hiked in Colorado in mid-July. It rained three inches the day before, so I quested for a unfamiliar paved trail in the region and decided that a stretch of the old Katy Railroad south of Cleveland, Oklahoma would be suitable. We could drive west and south through the Osage Hills to visit Hominy and Cleveland and then loop by downtown Tulsa for dinner, completing a 135 mile loop.

We drove 50 miles to Hominy, best known to me for its old empty buildings adorned with aging murals by Cha’ Tullis, along with metal silhouettes up on the hillside. We stopped at the historic Drummond home for a guided tour with manager Beverly Whitcomb. She was charming and showed off the 1905 abode, which has many of the original furnishings.

We then drove another 11 miles south through Cleveland to park near the Cedar Creek Apartments along the abandoned Katy railroad right-of-way to hike the asphalt trail eastward toward the Arkansas River and the northwest end of Lake Keystone. It was odd to see power line towers atop concrete pillars in the pool near Cedar Creek. Birds were lined up on a concrete ridge jutting out of the water.

Railroad Bridge

Up ahead we spied the white stone marking the official end of the trail, with a couple wandering about down there. They crossed the Arkansas on the old railroad bridge ahead of us, fishing poles in hand. Wendy did not want to traipse across the softening ties with their treacherous gaps, so I proceeded alone about 1000 feet across the long aging bridge to the far side.

I passed high above a couple of fishermen, laughing by the shore of the Arkansas. The crossing was made more interesting by a missing tie with spiderwebs spanning the gap. There was some fire damage along the bridge, and the eastern end lacked ties, so I had to finish atop a metal side beam.

Walking the Ties

I gazed back across the long bridge, Wendy lost to sight at the far end. I spied the couple who had crossed ahead of me down by the riverside, preparing to fish. I then recrossed the long bridge, glad to reach the western end where Wendy awaited me, proferring a water bottle. We returned to the car, sweaty but glad of our exercise.

We drove 33 miles southeast for a tasty dinner at the Spaghetti Warehouse in downtown Tulsa’s Brady District, afterward enjoying a free concert of Jamaican ska by The Skatalites at the adjacent Guthrie Green, a welcome conclusion to our day trip.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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Old Media

September 20, 2013
Has Bond ever been this beautiful?

Has Bond ever been this beautiful?

This is the end
Hold your breath and count to ten
Feel the earth move and then
Hear my heart burst again

There’s still life in the old boy.

The Skyfall Blu Ray disc sat beside the television set for two months, as I was unaware until tonight that it was the best Bond film in decades. Daniel Craig revived the James Bond franchise back in 2006 with a very serious take on Casino Royale, the Ian Fleming novel which got away from Broccoli and was a spoof back before I was potty trained. While it was invigorating to have a more vulnerable and gritty Bond, I found the film’s plot murky and the subsequent Quantum of Solace in 2008 a violent disappointment. So I didn’t make it to the cinema for Skyfall and took my sweet time about watching it on disc. But when I finally popped it in the player, I was in for a treat.

But I struggled with the Blu Ray disc, which wanted to bore me with mandatory previews and, of all things, a ludicrous commercial about Blu Ray disc features. Hey Columbia, disabling the menu and skip commands during previews and other unwanted junk is hardly a selling point for Blu Ray, especially when the disc lacks even rudimentary features like a director’s commentary and behind-the-scenes documentary. I finally had to resort to fast-forwarding through one piece of junk after another to get to the movie.

I was even more annoyed by a disc error which rendered a few minutes of the movie unwatchable. As I wrestled with the technology, I wished Hollywood would stop gouging me and put this film, which premiered almost a year ago, on the streaming services. Even better, throw in an option to stream a commentary and related documentaries. Eventually the physical discs will die out as bandwidth improves and younger viewers refuse to use optical media. But those days are not here yet.

Beautiful backdrop for assassin vs. assassin

Beautiful backdrop for assassin vs. assassin

One reason I still tolerate Blu Ray is the image quality, and thankfully Eon Production’s 23rd Bond film takes full advantage of it. Sam Mendes’ direction was superb and he made the most of a couple of visually stunning nighttime set pieces in Shanghai and an imagined Macao. Ridley Scott’s Los Angeles of Blade Runner has come to life, but 6500 miles to the west.

Blade Runner's Los Angeles has appeared 6500 miles to the west

Blade Runner’s Los Angeles has appeared 6500 miles to the west in Skyfall’s Shangai

Early Bond films had legendary theme songs and titles, and Adele’s entry for Skyfall is top notch, married to a great title sequence which gives nods to some of Mendes’ most beautiful imagery. I hadn’t enjoyed a Bond title sequence so much since Goldeneye back in 1995, with its wonderful imagery of the collapse of Soviet Russia and its iconography.

Even better, the film gave some meaningful back story for Bond and was a great final bow for Judi Dench’s groundbreaking portrayal of M, with excellent supporting work from Ralph Fiennes and the grand old Albert Finney. The villain had some great scenes, and the film was replete with homages to the past 50 years of the franchise without seeming stale or too campy.

But what I enjoyed most was the melancholy air about the film, its bleak portrayal of a Bond whose vices and age are catching up with him. I have been feeling my age this week, having aggravated my problematic lower back, and the film’s references to 50 years of Bond films reminded me that I’ll be 50 myself in a few years. Strangely enough, the rather bleak Skyfall gives me hope: it reminds me that there is still quite a bit of fight left in us both.

“Skyfall”

This is the end
Hold your breath and count to ten
Feel the earth move and then
Hear my heart burst again

For this is the end
I’ve drowned and dreamt this moment
So overdue I owe them
Swept away, I’m stolen

Let the sky fall
When it crumbles
We will stand tall
Face it all together
Let the sky fall
When it crumbles
We will stand tall
Face it all together
At skyfall
That skyfall

Skyfall is where we start
A thousand miles and poles apart
Where worlds collide and days are dark
You may have my number, you can take my name
But you’ll never have my heartLet the sky fall (let the sky fall)
When it crumbles (when it crumbles)
We will stand tall (we will stand tall)
Face it all togetherLet the sky fall (let the sky fall)
When it crumbles (when it crumbles)
We will stand tall (we will stand tall)
Face it all together
At skyfall

(Let the sky fall
When it crumbles
We will stand tall)

Where you go I go
What you see I see
I know I’d never be me
Without the security
Of your loving arms
Keeping me from harm
Put your hand in my hand
And we’ll stand

Let the sky fall (let the sky fall)
When it crumbles (when it crumbles)
We will stand tall (we will stand tall)
Face it all together

Let the sky fall (let the sky fall)
When it crumbles (when it crumbles)
We will stand tall (we will stand tall)
Face it all together
At skyfall

Let the sky fall
We will stand tall
At skyfall
Oh

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