Sugar Ridge at Beaver Lake, Day 1

June 6, 2014

For the first trip of our 2014 summer break, Wendy and I spent a long weekend at Sugar Ridge Resort on Beaver Lake in Arkansas. We usually stay at hotels on our adventures, but she had loved sharing a cabin up on Mount Nebo at the tail end of our 2014 spring break, so I booked us a romantic cabin overlooking the lake for this short vacation.

Raccoon Raiding our Bird Feeder

Wednesday’s child is full of woe, so on that day Princess lit up her CHECK ENGINE light. I was at the local AutoZone bright and early on Thursday so they could hook in their reader to tell me it was a faulty coolant thermostat. I dropped the car off with Danny Tolbert for repair and on Friday morning we left for Arkansas in Wendy’s Xanadu.

Our first stop was a quick lunch at the Full Moon Cafe on Cherry Street in Tulsa before heading down 412 to Arkansas. We stopped for dessert at the Applebee’s in Rogers so that I could see in person the mural which the restaurant owner had commissioned for its back wall; it blends together several of my photos of the area along with a few from other photographers. Below is the mural in digital form:

Applebee's Mural
Applebee’s Mural

It was fun to see in person this first known use of my photos at a restaurant. I get regular requests and occasional payments to use my photos in websites, magazines, brochures, and textbooks. The Applebee’s mural and a CD cover are the most unusual requests thus far. I was amused to see the restaurant had thanked “Greg Meador” for the use of his photos. That seemed oddly appropriate since I use “Greg” as a pseudonym when I’m making restaurant reservations: “Granger” is too unusual a first name for folks to easily process it. Does Granger Smith have this problem too?

Wendy with Angel Aloft at Pea Ridge

Our route to Beaver Lake took us by Pea Ridge battlefield, where I hiked in November 2012. Wendy was interested in seeing it in person, so we paid the $10 fee and drove around the loop to see the battlefield cannons. Wendy posed by the Angel Aloft monument, which was the first of two rather blocky statues we’d see this day.

We wound our way down to the north shore of Beaver Lake to our cabin at Sugar Ridge Resort. We were not disappointed: the view was gorgeous and we loved the big deck with its porch swing, Adirondack chairs, and bird/raccoon feeder. Later we’d find that the big indoor jacuzzi was the best we’ve used in our travels, and Wendy enjoyed using the fully equipped kitchen when we weren’t going out to eat.

The view from our deck at Sugar Ridge
Cresent Hotel Stairwell

But I had no intention of having Wendy working in the kitchen after our day’s journey and instead drove us 20 minutes east to Eureka Springs for dinner at Myrtie Mae’s. I then drove her over to the East Mountain Overlook to see the Crescent Hotel in the gloaming across the valley. She’d never been inside, so after a drive up Magnetic Mountain we went across the valley to the 1886 hotel to view the lobby and its cozy fireplace. I told her about the notorious Norman Baker, who ran a deadly “cancer clinic” at the hotel for a few years, and how back in high school my friend Jeff and I snuck into one of the penthouses to look around. Wendy and I climbed one of the great tilted creaking stairwells up to the observation deck for a sunset view of the Christ of the Ozarks statue across the valley on Magnetic Mountain.

Christ of the Ozarks from Crescent Hotel

I’ve been up Magnetic Drive dozens of times throughout my lifetime to view that weird statue and related projects, which are rather camp. I particularly enjoyed one visit years ago to the statue when the tapes of hymns by Tennessee Ernie Ford and Kate Smith were malfunctioning; the resultant warbling from the loudspeakers providing a thoroughly amusing sonic background for “our milk carton with arms“. But I was startled on this trip to discover that the statue and later projects were all by an infamous extreme-right-wing anti-Semite. Imagine his apoplectic reaction to how Eureka Springs has become the “Gay Capitol [sic] of the Ozarks“. [Ahem: in this context it would be capital, darling, not capitol.] In fact, we drove right past the town’s resort for gay men when we headed up Magnetic Drive toward the statue.

Wendy’s favorite stop was our night visit to the Grotto Spring, where we savored the cool air in the spooky grotto, thoughtfully lit by candles cared for by the city gardener, Don E. Allen. He maintains the beautiful grounds of many of the springs around town.

We returned to Sugar Ridge to sit out on the deck, where we enjoyed a visit from a raccoon, who climbed up and ensconced himself on the deck railing to raid our bird feeder. On Saturday I would take Wendy to walk at Blue Spring, tromp about Eureka Springs, and drive across the bridge to nostalgia at Beaver, Arkansas.

Raccoon Raiding our Bird Feeder

Click here for a slideshow from this day

Sugar Ridge, Day 2 >

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Why I switched to a dictionary that is over 100 years old

May 30, 2014

A definition from the 1913 Webster's

A definition from the 1913 Webster’s

Cory Doctorow at Boing Boing led me to a great blog post by James Somers about the mellifluous language found in very old editions of the famous Webster’s dictionary. He cites how the default dictionaries on the Kindle and the most widely used online dictionaries are pedestrian and uninspired, even insipid. I consider my own prose to be straightforward and functional, albeit reflecting a vocabulary expanded by my avid reading. But I can certainly recognize the wonderful rhythm and style of Edward Gibbon’s prose in his History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, and see a similar attention to prose stylings in the definitions (the definitions, for goodness sake) Somers cites in a very old edition of Webster’s.

I picked out the most recent word I looked up as a comparison; I’m reading Kurt Vonnegut’s The Sirens of Titan and “pulchritudinous” gave me pause. I knew it was something to do with beauty, but not clear on what sort of beauty it might convey.  I started with what has been my default dictionary on my Kindle Paperwhite, the Oxford Dictionary of English:

pulchritude n. [mass noun] LITERARY beauty.
<DERIVATIVES> pulchritudinous adj.
<ORIGIN> late Middle English: from Laton pulchritudo, from pulcher, pulchr- ‘beautiful’.

Well, that confirmed it was about beauty, but told me nothing more. Pitiful. Hmm…the Kindle lets me easily switch to another dictionary I installed, The New Oxford American Dictionary:

pul·chri·tude n. POETIC/LITERARY beauty.
<DERIVATIVES> pulchritudinous adj.
<ORIGIN> late Middle English: from Laton pulchritudo, from pulcher, pulchr- ‘beautiful’.

There all that I gain is syllables. So I followed Somers instructions to add the Webster’s Revised Unabridged of 1913 to my Kindle:

Pul’chri•tuden. [L. pulchritudo, fr. pulcher beautiful.]
1. That quality of appearance which pleases the eye; beauty; comeliness; grace; loveliness. “Piercing our heartes with thy pulchritude.” Court of Love.
2. Attractive moral excellence; moral beauty. “By the pulchritude of their souls make up what is wanting in the beauty of their bodies.” Ray.

Oh my, that is much better. I suppose a madman would try to use the crème de la crème of English words and meanings over time, the Oxford English Dictionary (not to be confused with the utilitarian Oxford Dictionary of English; the fascinating origin of the true OED was wonderfully told by the incomparable Simon Winchester in The Professor and the Madman).  But that would be absurdly expensive and bulky in print or even on a screen.

You can try out the 1913 edition of Webster’s online. Somers says, “Look up examplemagicsport. Look up arduoushugechauvinisticvenalpell-mellraimentsuesmarting,stereotype. Look up the word word, and look, and up. Look up every word you used today.” A little experimentation will show you what he admires; consider the elaborate guidance which comes with arduous:

Ar”du*ous (?; 135)a. [L. arduus steep, high; akin to Ir. ard high, height.]

1. Steep and lofty, in a literal sense; hard to climb.

Those arduous pats they trod. Pope.2. Attended with great labor, like the ascending of acclivities; difficult; laborious; as, an arduous employment, task, or enterprise. Syn. — Difficult; trying; laborious; painful; exhausting. — ArduousHardDifficultHard is simpler, blunter, and more general in sense than difficult; as, a hard duty to perform, hard work, a hard task, one which requires much bodily effort and perseverance to do. Difficult commonly implies more skill and sagacity than hard, as when there is disproportion between the means and the end. A work may be hard but not difficult. We call a thing arduous when it requires strenuous and persevering exertion, like that of one who is climbing a precipice; as, an arduous task, an arduous duty. It is often difficult to control our feelings; it is still harder to subdue our will; but it is an arduous undertaking to control the unruly and contending will of others.”

So I have made the 1913 Webster’s my new default dictionary on my Kindle, which lets me switch to one of the Oxfords or use Wikipedia if a definition is not present in the 101-year-old tome. Don’t settle for something newer, however. Note how disappointed I was in the modern but minimalist Oxford Dictionary of English; using a more modern Webster’s probably would not help much. “Webster’s” on a dictionary title means very little since Noah Webster and his copyrights both expired so very long ago. My anachronistic print dictionary beside my computer is Webster’s New World Dictionary, Second College Edition of 1986 by Prentice Hall/Simon & Schuster, and has little relationship to the 19th century Webster dictionaries. It is just as minimalist as the Oxford Dictionary of English. Buying a Webster’s from Merriam-Webster might help, but their online definition of pulchritude was just as pathetic:

pul·chri·tude noun \ˈpəl-krə-ˌtüd, –ˌtyüd\
:  physical comeliness
— pul·chri·tu·di·nous \ˌpəl-krə-ˈtüd-nəs, –ˈtyüd-; –ˈtü-dən-əs, –ˈtyü-\ adjective

Oh no. Webster’s 1913, please!

 

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Springfield and Ha Ha Tonka

May 16-17, 2014

I missed my classes on Friday so that I could attend a meeting of the newly formed Transition Committee for the Oklahoma Academic Standards for Science. Those new science standards were threatened by a committee vote in the state House of Representatives last week, which prompted me after the morning meeting to travel north to the state capitol to join fellow committee member Sarah Vann of Owasso in meeting with the policy advisor for the Speaker of the House in the Speaker’s office, followed by visits with Senator Ford and Representative Sears of Bartlesville. We are hopeful that the new standards, which were adopted unanimously by the State Board of Education in March, will remain in place. 

Springfield

The politicking meant I was a few hours late in returning to Bartlesville for an overnight trip with Wendy to Missouri. We had a late dinner at the Pizza Hut in Vinita on our way northeast to spend the night at a Comfort Inn in Springfield. What a contrast our comfortable room was to the clean but quite minimalist Motel 6 room I had stayed at in Norman the night before; I’ll spend much more for our outings as a couple than on myself when I need unreimbursed lodging for school business.

Our room was so comfortable that we had a late start on Saturday, finally departing for lunch at J. Parrino’s Queen City Deli. I enjoyed my Burnes sandwich, consisting of a beef tenderloin on garlic cheese bread with mild horseradish, more than Wendy did her Meatball Po-Boy. Happily I followed that up with a trip downtown to The Cup for fantastic cupcakes. We both marveled at our respective yummy choices: a lemon drop cupcake for me and a mocha cappuccino cupcake for her. The frosting was amazing, the cake moist and delicious, and I know we would have to increase our respective exercise regimes if we ever had a similar shop in Bartlesville.

Phelps Grove Rose Garden

We next stopped at the rose garden at Phelps Grove Park, a place I always try to visit in season with its various beds providing bursts of color everywhere one turns. The peak had passed for spring blooms, but we still found many lovely flowers on display, including roses and peonies whose petals were wide open. We saw a few birds, many bees, and one rabbit in the garden area with poppies, irises, a nice border of dianthus, and much more. The bees were particularly interested in the peony pollen.

Before we headed north to Ha Ha Tonka State Park for a hike, Wendy asked me to drive by L.E. Meador park so she could see the facility honoring Dr. Lewis Elbern Meador, my third cousin twice removed, who back in 1973 was named “Springfieldian of the Century”. He taught economics and political science for 43 years at Drury University, chaired the creation of Springfield’s “home-rule” city charter, wrote most of Missouri’s 1947 state constitution, helped end the Pendergast machine’s control of the state judiciary, and was instrumental in establishing the Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield. My own politicking pales in comparison!

Ha Ha Tonka

Back in September 2010 I hiked most of the trails at Ha Ha Tonka State Park, which is a 90-minute drive north of Springfield. Wendy surprised me with a map she had created showing all of the trails I had hiked on my solo trip back then, and highlighting some trails I had not taken which we might trek together on this sunny afternoon. We began with a 0.9 mile hike along the Castle Trail from a parking lot down and around the famous ruined Castle at the park. Soon we could spy through the trees the stone remains looming over an arm of the Lake of the Ozarks.

Side of the Castle

We saw signage of the castle in its heyday before confronting the ruined edifice. I posed at the castle overlook with the imposing water tower in the background which was part of the original estate. We circled the building and then decided to go hike the Dolomite Rock Trail, which promised to have far fewer families with small children milling about.

The trailhead was deserted when we arrived at the River Cave Area, with the eponymous cave having two sinkhole entrances, both sealed off except to flying bats. The second sinkhole had interesting eroded walls. Soon we were crossing sunny glades with Indian Paintbrush flowers.

Indian Paintbrush

 

We climbed upward to a view of the stone water tower atop a distant hill. We re-entered the woods and briefly followed part of an old road before crossing another glade. We then plunged back into the woods along a hillside, passing a tree which had been girdled to death by barbed wire. Above and to our left was a long bluffline with distinctive erosion layering, while a creek flowed below to our right. Wendy and I both remarked upon a small gothic arch in the bluff. She posed by the last section of bluff as the trail turned about. We heard a deer crashing through the brush and I spied it leaping away uphill, with a bobcat jumping after it. If only my camera could have caught the action!

Wendy at the Bluff

Wendy pointed out some trailside toadstools, and as we crossed the high point of the ridge we were briefly aside a low rock wall. Throughout our trek Wendy was spying rocks with small crystals and enjoying the wildflowers. When we reached the old road on our return journey, we rested and discovered we both had several ticks despite our use of Cutter when we began our hike hours before. When we reached the car we removed all of the ticks that we could find and changed clothes and washed up a bit before heading toward nearby Camdenton for dinner.

TripAdvisor recommended Der Essen Platz (The Eating Place) near Bridal Cave. I’ve been leery of German food for decades, but I thoroughly enjoyed my lemony weiner schnitzel and Wendy said her wurst and apples were deliciously prepared. The restaurant has a commanding view of the Lake of the Ozarks below, with hummingbirds fluttering about several feeders outside the windows. Our waitress cracked us up when she entered the room belting out “Here Comes Santa Claus” as she delivered what I presume was Samichlaus beer to the neighboring table. She was a hoot, speaking to regulars at another table about her ongoing efforts to rescue neglected dogs.

While we only hiked less than four miles on this trip, it was a relaxing and enjoyable escape. The weather is warming up, so we only have a few weeks left before hiking in the Ozarks becomes too miserable to contemplate.

Click here for a slideshow from this trip

 

 

 

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Climbing the Heights in Muskogee

May 4, 2014
Azaleas at Honor Heights

The first Sunday of May 2014 found Wendy and me enjoying Chatsworth Boxties at Kilkenny’s in Tulsa. We then took the turnpike southeast to Muskogee to Honor Heights Park. The park is best known for its spring Azalea Festival, but even with their late arrival this year, spring had sprung too far for us to see most of its 30,000 azalea plants in bloom. Nevertheless we did find several large displays of blooms under the shelter of some trees, with some blooms still blazing.

In the warm afternoon, folks were gathered around the water on the west edge of the park. We walked along the west shore of the lake, enjoying the odd noises made by a Greylag Goose. Our path turned east to follow the north shore of the lake, and then we began climbing the big hill which dominates the east edge of the park.

Honor Heights Pond Panorama

Lacking a proper map, we missed the arboretum and the rose garden farther north, so I’m sure Wendy will have us coming back to see those features! (Wendy had sent me a link which led to a virtual map, but I failed to do my homework before we headed out.)

We visited the Azalea Festival plant sales area, where many colorful displays attracted our attention, with plants covered in blooms. Then we located the attractive waterfall, climbing a trail beside it up to the top of the reservoir hill. There we followed a narrow trail northward which must have been part of the park’s Audobon Trail, although I saw no signage.

Honor Heights Waterfall

We passed through a green archway up on the top of the hill and then located the Henry Bresser Nature Trail along the top of the east edge of the hill. This quarter-mile trail was built in the 1930s using WPA funds and has somewhat neglected paths, seating areas, picnic tables, and fireplaces. We were out of sync with the planners’ routing, finding the trailhead at the end of our trek.

Five Civilized Tribes Museum

A blaring alarm led us to the Five Civilized Tribes Museum, which is housed in the Union Indian Agency building of 1875. Unfortunately it is closed on Sundays, so after the presumably false alarm silenced itself we had to be content with the vista of low tree-covered mounds to the southwest, looking past the imposing edifice of the VA Medical Center.

We climbed down the hill, taking the lower stretch of the wooded Audobon Trail back to the waterfall. We crossed the park, seeing more cypress trees with their distinctive knees protruding out of the ground, and returned to our car, having walked 1.8 miles.

I look forward to returning to the park in cooler weather to explore all of the Audobon Trail and see the arboretum and rose garden.

We wrapped up our visit to Muskogee with a drive to see the downtown area and a visit to the struggling Arrowhead Mall, and then returned home. I’m glad I finally saw Honor Heights Park and shall certainly return some day.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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Ozark Botanical Garden & Blue Spring

May 3, 2014

The first Saturday in May found me trekking to Arkansas to visit the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks in Fayetteville and Blue Spring northwest of Eureka Springs. It was my first visit to the former and a return to the latter after visits in my youth. Wendy would join me the following day for a separate trek to Honor Heights Park in Muskogee, Oklahoma.

The botanical garden in Fayetteville began in 1994 as a dream of Donna Porter, finally breaking ground in 2003 under Carl Totemeier on 100 acres of city property on the east side of Lake Fayetteville, with Phase One completed in 2006. 

Candy Corn Pansies

I paid $7 for entry, passing a colorful pot of flowers and a patio bordered by flowers to the Founder’s Garden, with a nice bench and a fountain. A lovely pansy caught my eye as well as an orange ball of petals nearby. The neighboring Japanese Garden was in need of attention, but familiar crops were growing in the Vegetable and Herb Garden, which featured a large colorful corn cob mosaic sculpture and a female farmer sculpture with a hose ready for use.

Trellis Tunnel to the Reading Railroad

The most interesting garden was the Children’s Garden, with a cute mosaic gardening hat at the entrance and a treehouse or, perhaps, a house like the trunk of a tree. A child-sized archway led to the neighboring lawn, with another portal featuring a nice adjacent tree design. The second portal was a trellis tunnel to the Kiwanis Reading Rainbow where youngsters could sit and read.

The Butterfly House and Pavilion did not have the eponymous denizens in residence, and the remaining gardens were less interesting to me, although I did like a beautiful tulip poking up above some beds and there were colorful flowerbeds in the Sensory Garden.

I had just enough time to drive from Fayetteville to Blue Spring near Eureka Springs and spend an hour there before it closed for the day. Blue Spring operated as a tourist attraction in my youth with a nice film on Eureka Springs history and the spring itself, gushing 38 million gallons of water each day into nearby Beaver Lake, which was once the White River. In 1993 the attraction became Eureka Springs Gardens and is now the Blue Spring Heritage Center.

Entry was $9.75 and my first stop was to see part of the video on the history of the spring and nearby Eureka Springs. There was less historical information on Eureka Springs than I recalled from my youth; I was running out of time for my tour, so I did not see the accompanying video about divers who made it about 250 feet down into the funnel-shaped spring, which plumbed to over 500 feet in depth.

Blue Spring Pool

My descent down many steps beside flowerbeds toward the spring lagoon refreshed dim memories. Large trout and bass in the lagoon were completely uninterested in the fish food thrown their way from the feeding deck as I followed the boardwalk to the spring. The large circular pool was still there, with a concrete lid about 12 feet down at the original spring opening. The plain concrete rim has now been adorned with pavers to form a perimeter flower bed, with more beds ringing the surrounding walkway. It makes for a lovely setting.

The only other visitors were three gentlemen from India, two of whom were using nice cameras to take shots of the third against the beautiful surroundings. I speculated that they might be taking photos to send to his arranged bride back home, or perhaps to his relatives in the sub-continent.

Candy Corn Pansies

Beautiful pansies, some of which reminded me of Halloween candy corn, adorned the beds. The reflection of the gazebo and feeding deck at the lagoon was enticing as I made my way down the opposite of the lagoon toward the bluff overhang. In 1971, Robert G. Chenall and his students from the University of Arkansas conducted an archeaological dig of that bluff shelter, finding prehistoric artifacts, shellfish and the bones of deer, turtle and other fauna. Some date back as far as 8000 BCE. Chenall also uncovered fire pits and evidence of life such as small arrow points and Woodward Plain pottery, confirming the presence of American Indians dating back as far as 1700 CE.

Bluff Overhang at Blue Spring
Chubby Butt Squirrel

The nearby bluff was pockmarked with small holes, and beyond that the rock garden was carpeted in green growth. I climbed the pretty and more gentle hillside to return to the parking area, passing a chubby-butt squirrel feeding his backside.

The road leading out of the peninsula where Blue Spring is situated offered a nice vista to the west, including a barn and cattle. I drove into Eureka Springs and took the old historic loop through town, finding the downtown packed with folks enjoying the ArtRageous Parade. Unfortunately I was driving through crowded narrow streets and could not capture shots of the revelers. Eating at a downtown restaurant was a lost cause, so I opted for good old Myrtie Mae’s up on the rim and had their delicious fried chicken.

I have booked a cabin at Sugar Ridge on Beaver Lake for Wendy and I to enjoy for a couple of days in early June, so I’ll be back in this vicinity soon; I love Arkansas scenery, but it won’t be long before it is too hot and muggy for the likes of me.

Click here for a slideshow from this day trip

 

 

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