A Sinister Mr. Fix-It

I’ve been providing technology help in our district for many years; this shot was in my old office before the science wing was built in 2003

For friends and colleagues I’ve always been the go-to guy for help with computers. I’ve written many training manuals and tip sheets, and after years of purely volunteer work I’m now paid a minimal annual stipend to help keep computers running and reduce user frustration at the high school. I can quickly grasp software interfaces and glitches, knowing how to find quick solutions via the internet for novel problems. Over the years I’ve installed memory, disk drives, interface cards, motherboards, and more. But in college my attempt to build a circuit to add lowercase letters to my Tandy Color Computer 2 mostly taught me I had no soldering ability.

Despite my mastery of computers, I never thought I’d become Mr. Fix-It when it came to home appliances and cars. Despite many years of piano lessons and decent typing ability, I’m not at all dextrous with tools. Maybe that’s because I’m left-handed and dextrous comes from dexter, Latin for right handed? And Latin’s left is sinistra, which became associated with evil and begat our word sinister. Yes, further bigotry against southpaws like me!  But given my clumsiness with hand tools, I never expected to be much of a repairman or do-it-yourselfer.

For years I rented apartments and then a house, so the landlord was responsible for most repairs. I did diagnose and replace a faulty load selector switch in the old Maytag washer my parents had given me, happy to have avoided the cost of a service call. But I have always paid professionals do almost all of the maintenance and repairs to my automobiles. I did install a windshield wiper delay circuit in my first car, a bare-bones 1976 Toyota Corolla, but I paid professionals to upgrade it with air conditioning, a cassette deck stereo, and the like. Over the years I gave up changing the oil in my cars myself and began relying upon neighborhood lubrication shops. And I’ve always had car dealers deal with major maintenance and repairs. Given the high cost of skilled labor, I’m grateful that my 2001 Camry, unlike my four earlier vehicles, is so reliable that it seldom has to go into the shop.

But when I bought my home in 1994, it had its original 1981 appliances. I ordered a new rack for the dishwasher because the old one was rusting out: hardly a challenging fix! The refrigerator’s door seals were filthy and worn out, so I ordered new ones and at least I did have to use a screwdriver to swap those out. Over the years I paid professionals to install a new hot water heater and replace the furnace and air conditioner.

I replaced the thermostat in my Jenn-Air

But in 2007 my Jenn-Air oven had passed the quarter century mark and stopped working. I thought about a new range, but I liked to cook steaks on the broiler, so I concentrated on Jenn-Airs which could use the existing under-floor vent. Wow – I quickly decided I needed to fix it instead!

I was used to checking the internet for help with computers, so why not have it help out with the oven? The diagnosis was a faulty thermostat. I ordered one for $126 from PartSelect.com and was somewhat amazed that I could take apart the oven and get it working again.

A timer I found on eBay brought my washing machine back to life

That experience didn’t prevent me from calling a repairman a year later when my own 12-year-old Maytag washer began behaving oddly, running its motor at the wrong speed and sometimes stopping in the middle of a cycle. The repairman said it was a bad timer and that model was no longer manufactured, so he couldn’t replace it. Remembering how much I’d saved previously on the oven, I wasn’t about to buy a new washer. So I paid the repairman for his time and as soon as he left I went on eBay and found the timer I needed for $88. When it arrived it was an easy install and I was back in business.

A month later the tile wall above my bathtub began to collapse. The seal was gone and the tile affixed to ordinary drywall rather than greenwall, so rot and mold had set in and undermined the wall all around the tub. The vinyl floor in my kitchen also looked bad and was peeling up, so I asked a couple of contractors for estimates. Their high prices led me to look for an alternate approach.

For the bathroom, I opted to hire The Quarry out of Dewey to install beautiful cultured marble panels to replace the tile walls. Cultured marble is a mixture of resin and marble dust. They had me pick out the style I preferred and were very friendly and did a great job, but they did not handle demolition. I’d have to remove the old tile walls myself.

I know my manual dexterity is poor, so I’m leery of power tools. But I bought a small reciprocating saw and went to work, peeling away the rim tiles and pulling out the rotten sections of the wall, then cutting out all of the rest. My only goof was dropping a section on the edge of the tub, chipping the porcelain. A patch kit from Wal-Mart solved that, and the odd bump on the tub is my “sinister reminder” of my own ineptitude! My kindly neighbor, who has since passed away, offered to haul the tile walls to the dump for me in his pickup.

I did the demolition on the walls (and a spot on the tub!) and The Quarry did the installation

Then The Quarry came out, installed greenboard and the marble, and had a plumber come out and install the new fixtures I’d picked up at Lowe’s. I’m delighted with the results. The bathroom looks much better and I just quickly wipe down the smooth walls after each shower and thus never have to clean the walls of mildew, soap scum, or dirt.

Next was the kitchen floor. I opted to do this entirely by myself. First the old vinyl floor covering had to be removed. The edges were peeling, but when I tried to peel it the rest of the way, it shredded, leaving patches of flooring and lots of glue adhering to the underlying concrete slab. I spent over eight hours slowly scraping away the gunk. I listened to a big chunk of the last Harry Potter book as I worked, cursing Harry and Hermione as they wandered about aimlessly after Ron deserted them. I knew what I’d be doing if I were them, and it wouldn’t be moping around about Ginger!

My parents race cars on the kitchen’s sheet vinyl floor in 1994; 14 years later I removed it and installed self-stick vinyl tiles

I finally got the gunk cleared away and began laying down self-stick Italia Stone vinyl tiles I’d purchased at Lowe’s. They went down fast until I reached the edges of my galley kitchen and had to start trimming them to fit. It was painstaking work to wrap them around the doorway into and throughout my small utility room. But the end product looked nice and saved me a fortune. Four years later the tiles still look nice, although there has been some shrinkage or shifting along one or two lines which someday I need to deal with.

My programmable thermostat

Three weeks ago I came home from work one afternoon to a chilly house. At first I thought the batteries in my programmable Honeywell thermostat must have failed; that replacement of the old standard thermostat was an easy 2001 project. After I installed it my average annual usage of natural gas dropped 32% and my electricity usage dropped by 6% because if I’m at work the system resets to 85 degrees in the warm months and 60 degrees in the cool ones, bringing things back to normal before I return home. On summer nights it lets the temperature warm to 78 degrees, while winter nights chill down to 65 degrees with me snug under my electric blanket.

I save less in the summer, and thus save much more on natural gas, since being a teacher I’m at home during the day in the hottest months. But I do save on utilities, if not travel costs, when I go on long summer vacations. Former student Ben Stallings wrote a nice article on utility bill analysis, although I’ll confess that I just averaged my annual usage over multiple years for my quick calculations.

But late in January the house had not been warmed up for me by the time I arrived home. My thermostat seemed fine and would trigger the fan, but there wasn’t any heat. I went ahead and swapped the batteries, but that made no difference. So I opened up the furnace, which I’d had installed six years earlier, and was naturally out of warranty. I saw a red light blinking. Oh dear. I changed out the air filter in case that might help, but no go. I then noticed that the red light was blinking in a pattern of four flashes. I grew up with furnaces that had no alert lights at all, so it hadn’t occurred to me that the furnace might be telling me what was wrong.

I dug out the manual and discovered that the High Pressure Limit Switch was acting up. The internet told me what to check and I verified that there was no good reason for it to be unhappy. So I studied the wiring diagram for the furnace controls. Perhaps I could jumper that sensor out before nightfall? It was growing quite cold in the house, so I stopped and loaded up the fireplace with wood for the first time in over a year and started a big fire. I could sleep by the fireside if I had to, but for now I’d try to jury-rig the furnace.

I jury-rigged around a bad furnace switch

I eventually found the correct wires to and from the switch, unplugged the furnace, pulled off the jumpers, and found that a sawtooth picture hanger fit them perfectly. I plugged each jumper onto my hanger and turned the furnace back on. I grinned when the second fan motor in my 80% efficient furnace kicked on for the first time that evening and whooped when the burners ignited. I felt like Scotty, rigging the engines for Captain Kirk.

I installed a new high limit switch in my home furnace

I started shutting down the fireplace and then went back out into the garage and pulled the bad switch. It looked fine, but who can tell? I used the part number on it to locate a replacement which I ordered for $32 from New Jersey. The part arrived less than a week later, I swapped the new switch in and hooked it up, and the furnace is working just fine.

My repeated success at these little projects inspired me, despite my dexterity shortcomings, to contemplate a big project for me: ridding myself of the annoying FM transmitter I had to use to listen to my iPhone in the car. Back in 2001 when my car was new, a CD player and cassette deck were state of the art.

When I bought my first 40 GB hard drive iPod for $500 in 2004 (how times have changed), I started using a cassette adapter to connect it to the car’s stereo. But over the years the deck gearing had gotten too noisy and I’d struggled with several FM transmitters until I found a decent one, but even then on my trips I’d repeatedly run into interference from new radio stations and have to struggle to find a clear channel and resynchronize the transmitter and the car’s FM radio to it. Could the internet help me solve this long-standing problem? Yep! Click here to view that car improvement project.

Posted in home repair, technology | 9 Comments

Shake It Out

My January 2012 Song of the Month

For 2012 I’m going to pick a favorite new song each month to share: my favorite discovery of the preceding month, be it old or new and no matter what genre it occupies. At 45 I’m hardly the youth I was in high school and college, aware of all of the top hits, even the ones I despised. Now I have no earthly idea of what is popular since I no longer have music television or bearable radio stations to inform me.

Modern technology could come to my rescue if I were into Pandora or Spotify or other streaming music services. But the over ten thousand songs in my iTunes collection keep me satiated so that I have to actively decide to seek out something novel.

And for January 2012 my choice is Florence + The Machine with Shake It Out from the Ceremonials album. I discovered it through NPR’s All Songs Considered and its 2011 show of listeners’ favorite albums.

Shake It Out

Regrets collect like old friends
Here to relive your darkest moments
I can see no way, I can see no way
And all of the ghouls come out to play
And every demon wants his pound of flesh
But I like to keep some things to myself
I like to keep my issues drawn
It’s always darkest before the dawn

And I’ve been a fool and I’ve been blind
I can never leave the past behind
I can see no way, I can see no way
I’m always dragging that horse around
And our love is pastured such a mournful sound
Tonight I’m gonna bury that horse in the ground
So I like to keep my issues drawn
But it’s always darkest before the dawn

Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaaah
And it’s hard to dance with a devil on your back
So shake him off, oh woah

I am done with my graceless heart
So tonight I’m gonna cut it out and then restart
Cause I like to keep my issues drawn
It’s always darkest before the dawn

Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
And it’s hard to dance with a devil on your back
So shake him off, oh woah
And it’s hard to dance with a devil on your back so shake him off

And given half the chance would I take any of it back
It’s a fine romance but its left me so undone
It’s always darkest before the dawn

Oh woah, oh woah…

And I’m damned if I do and I’m damned if I don’t
So here’s to drinks in the dark at the end of my road
And I’m ready to suffer and I’m ready to hope
It’s a shot in the dark and right at my throat
Cause looking for heaven, found the devil in me
Looking for heaven, found the devil in me
Well what the hell I’m gonna let it happen to me

Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
And it’s hard to dance with a devil on your back
So shake him off, oh woah

Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
Shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, shake it out, ooh woaaah
And it’s hard to dance with a devil on your back
So shake him off, oh woah

February 2012 Song of the Month >

Posted in music, video | 1 Comment

Big Hill Lake & Tolen Creek

Tolen Creek Trails (click image for slideshow)

I spent most of January 2012 fighting sinusitis, unable to take advantage of unseasonably warm weather for day hikes. Finally, four weeks after my previous day hike on New Year’s Eve, I had recovered sufficiently to contemplate hiking on the final weekend of the month, which again arrived weirdly warm, reaching the upper 50s on Sunday.

I knew I didn’t want to travel too far, yet I hoped for something novel. A perusal of the map showed I’d exhausted most of the nearby opportunities in Oklahoma. So I scrolled the map north into Kansas. Many months ago the husband of my friend and coworker Betty Henderson had mentioned there were trails at Big Hill Lake near Cherryvale, and I settled on them.

I spent Saturday doing laundry and reading a thin volume Betty had given me: The Benders: Keepers of the Devil’s Inn. It told the particulars of a group of four serial killers, an older couple and a younger couple, who set up a one-room Hell House on the Prairie near Cherryvale in the early 1870s and set about doing away with passersby on the Osage Trail linking Independence and Fort Scott. They evidently murdered 17 people over three years, mostly by hammering in their skulls and slitting their throats. They successfully fled the scene before locals caught on and were never held accountable. The house was dismembered by souvenir hunters, but their hammers are in the Cherryvale Museum and almost all of their victims are buried at Benders Mounds just north of Big Hill Lake.

I wouldn’t be driving by those mounds, but instead focused on the Ruth Nixon hiking trail located five miles south of them along the west shore of the lake near the dam. There is also a 17-mile bridle trail around the north end of the lake, but I couldn’t find any online trail maps, just a biking trail site saying the bridle trail is shaped like an H with the cross-segment along a gravel road across the lake called Rea Bridge. So I wasn’t sure if I could reach the bridle trail from the Nixon trail or not.

I arrived at the dam overlook at 10:15 a.m. and followed the signs to Pearson-Skubitz Big Hill Lake. Only a government bureaucrat could think of such a terrible name. Everyone really just calls it Big Hill Lake after the Osage Indian leader Pa-In-No-Pa-She (Not Afraid of Longhairs), or Big Hill Joe as he was known by whites. The band of Osage Indians he once led lived in a village a few miles to the northwest before their land was purchased/stolen and they were shifted south into Oklahoma in 1872. I have no idea who Pearson or Skubitz were; Public Law 95-625 gave the lake that terrible prefix without bothering to say why.

It turns out my camera was not focusing properly for the first part of my hike. I suppose it is as out of practice as I am after weeks of convalescence. So my shots of the arched observation platform and panorama from it had to be sharpened in Photoshop. I located the south trailhead for the Ruth Nixon Trail nearby, with a nice big trail map sign revealing that the trail hugged the shoreline northward to one of the parking areas for the bridle trail. So I could extend the roughly one-mile trail from there.

I was immediately greeted by a broken-down bridgelet and the discovery that the trail area had been burned over. So it is no great tragedy that my camera was on the blink and I can only offer post-sharpened images of the denuded surroundings and a burned-down tree. I trudged northward to where the lake has not been cleared for boats and finally reached a long fishing berm where the trail came to an end. I located the bridle trail parking area, where I was told the trail was closed from 10/30-12/11 and 1/1-1/8 during the firearm deer seasons. I was well out of that, so I continued northward some distance from the lake on the blue-blazed horse trail.

The trail followed the fence line long enough to worry me that it would not be worthwhile, but then turned toward the lake. Along here I spooked a group of five deer a couple of times, seeing their white tails rapidly bobbing away.

I’d not used the many benches along the Nixon trail and wondered where I’d sit down for lunch, but then right about noon I found a sawed stump where I could sit down and eat. After continuing northward only a bit more, I began hearing many nearby gunshots. They were close enough to be unnerving and I donned my orange cap and vest and reversed course back to the trailhead, finding an alternate route to avoid most of the fenceline section. I hope those shooters were having better luck than I: hours later, when I downloaded what I had in my camera, all I found was a blurry mess.

I’d hiked 7.75 miles but it wasn’t even 2 p.m. yet. Based on the poor winter scenery and gunshots I had no interest in hiking other parts of the trail system, but I had read about a new trail system being constructed just north of Parsons at Tolen Creek at the junction of highways 59 and 400. So that would be next.

I drove half an hour over to Parsons, pausing to look at the doughboy at the courthouse and then found the unmarked turnoff for the Tolen Creek Trails. This area is under development, with wide gravel trails and associated bridges under construction. It is currently somewhat unprepossessing and afflicted with highway noise, but once the trails are finished and more grass is planted it will make for a fairly pleasant two-mile walking loop excepting the noisy aural environment.

There is an old stone house there, built in 1895 and renovated in 2006 for use as a farm history center. There didn’t appear to be much inside when I peered into the windows, but the tiny old house does have a big grand chimney.

I liked how they had curbed the trail around the big fishing pond with rough rocks; I don’t know if they plan to line the entire trail that way, but it would make it look nicer. A new bridge with a bowed rail plank led across the creek to the unfinished east part of the property, which wound around to two more large bridges where I encountered some fellow walkers.

I walked north under highway 400 past a Little Feather graffiti tag and took the unfinished north loop, where I found two old chairs sitting beside the trail. Not your traditional bench, but they would do. I sat down for another snack and then walked on around over another bridge being built which looked like it led to the nearby Wal-Mart Supercenter. I admired the pile of stones awaiting placement at its far end, and was glad the trail turned aside from Wally World and headed back toward the fishing pond.

A bluebird hopped beside me from branch to branch for a bit and then I passed a father and two children doing what comes naturally at a fishing pond. I’d walked two miles, bringing my total for the day to almost ten miles, and I was feeling fatigued.

So I headed home, stopping off in Independence for a refreshing dipped cone at the Dairy Queen. When I arrived home I could tell I was out of shape from my month without any hikes and collapsed for a short nap. I quickly recovered, however, and was ready to edit photos and compose the blog post. I’m rather disappointed that my camera, which up to now had been a strong performer, is having focusing issues. Most of my later shots at Tolen Creek were fine, but a few showed the same lousy focus which plagued all of the shots at Big Hill Lake. It may be time for a new camera. If I do invest in one, I’ll steer away from a Panasonic Lumix this time, although I’ll insist on another pocketable one with superzoom and built-in GPS.

Click here for a slideshow from these day hikes

Posted in day hike, photos, travel | Leave a comment

Superheroes Past and Present

I wasn’t a big comic book collector, but I did read DC 3-packs in the early to mid-1970s. Marvel comics never caught on with me – their artwork seemed cruder to my eyes and I didn’t care for all of the bickering and angst amongst its characters…too much drama!

The front and back books of my DC 3-packs were usually Justice League of America and Action or Detective Comics (aka Superman or Batman) while the middle would be some lesser title like Superboy or Green Lantern/Green Arrow. Since I only had a couple dozen or so comic books in all, I read and re-read some of those comics again and again, enough that images from several of the stories lingered over thirty-five years later.

My comic books were discarded decades ago, and although I would sometimes wish I’d kept Dagger in the Sky and other tales, I presumed I’d never see them again. Comics were printed on cheap paper and how could you possibly sift through the hundreds of titles at a comic book shop and hope to find the few you fondly remembered?

Well, the internet puts everything at your fingertips these days. Online databases let you see the covers from any mainstream comic book and you can then use that info to track down a digital download. Recently I’ve re-acquired a number of titles from my youth and enjoyed revisiting their artwork, if not their juvenile storylines.

You can click on any of the images here to enlarge them.

Memorable images from my youth

Dagger in the Sky from 1972’s Superman #256 was the story I remembered best. I was always struck by that plane-shaped hole ripped through the fabric of spacetime.

Dramatic action

And the dramatic take-off of the jet from the hanger lingered in my mind’s eye as well. I loved Superman stories where he used his brains as well as his brawn, since Superman was enough of a deus ex machina himself without needing silly assistance from robot Supermen and other junk from his Fortress of Solitude. I disliked stories involving kryptonite, especially the many weird variations, and despaired when Mr. Mxyzptlk would make another annoying appearance. Gosh, did I really like Superman? Doesn’t sound like it, does it?

First person shooter

The next month brought Detective Comics #428 with a dramatic first-person shooter cover. But I was never as fond of Batman as I was of Superman. I loved the campy Batman TV show, but the comics of the 1970s were a very different take on the caped crusader. They were dark and seething with rage, although not as down and dirty as Frank Miller’s influential 1986 The Dark Knight Returns, which truly isn’t my cup of tea in storyline or artwork. And while I liked the first of the Tim Burton Batman movies, they went downhill fast. The new Christian Bale movies are better, but are also quite grim.

A noirish Hawkman caper I liked

That same 1972 issue of Detective Comics had a moody noir-style Hawkman story which I liked for its somber atmosphere. I never read much of Hawkman, but that particular short tale stuck in my mind.

I always preferred Justice League of America stories to the comics dedicated to a single character. They had more variation in style and content. I was no doubt influenced by the Super Friends television show, and Wonder Woman in the comic books was a far more interesting female character than anyone in the sappy Superman Family comics, even if she was rather dull in Super Friends.

Wonder Woman was the brainchild of William Moulton Marston, a Harvard-educated psychologist and lawyer and inventor of the lie detector. That explains the magic lasso’s truth-telling power, but Charles Lyons points out that “Marston filled his stories with bondage (both male and female), spanking, sorority initiation rituals, cross-dressing, infantilism, and playful domination.”

Wonder Woman in a typical act of bondage

Lyons offers up a revealing comment by Marston in 1946:

Tell me anybody’s preference in story strips and I’ll tell you his subconscious desires…Superman and the army of male comics characters who resemble him satisfy the simple desire to be stronger and more powerful than anybody else. Wonder Woman satisfies the subconscious, elaborately disguised desire of males to be mastered by a woman who loves them.

She'd changed some by the 1970s

The original Wonder Woman

Wonder Woman changed styles with the times, starting out with a 40s hairstyle and ruffling skirt which were long gone by the time I read her tales in the 1970s Justice League comics.

But she retained her habit of either getting trussed or chained up herself or gleefully doing it to others.

A Sexy Superboy?

The most sexualized artwork I read as a kid was, oddly enough, in Superboy. Even at age 9 I could pick up on some of the homo- and hetero-erotic vibes. We all know what those teenage superheroes were really up to, don’t we? The costuming left little to the imagination, for males or females, but as a prepubescent I was no doubt even more distracted by the visual Star Trek references in their spaceships. The female costumes were also a reminder of 1960s Star Trek: the outfits, or lack of them, which Bill Theiss draped over the guest stars.

Your place or mine?

She used too much bleach when washing her costume

Which is stranger: Cosmic Boy's outfit or the junked U.S.S. Enterprise?

The 1970s were part of the Bronze Age of comics. The Golden Age had ended in the 1950s with the attacks by Fred Wertham and the consequent Comics Code. The Silver Age had brought back many superheroes in revamped costumes and modernized origin stories. The Bronze Age I grew up in added more self-consciously darker and “socially relevant” storylines, which did little for me.

I certainly didn’t like all of the parallel worlds that built up in the storylines to explain away various contradictions. Eventually DC had the Crisis storylines of the 1980s which revamped all of the continuity. I wasn’t reading any comics by then, so I missed out on all that. And I also missed out on the switch from mass comic reading by kids to avid collecting by adults. Readership declined but revenue was bolstered by special editions and collectors.

The only time I read any comics after elementary school was when I heard Superman died. I picked up a graphic novel collection of the follow-up storyline of Superman’s return, struggling to decipher its maze of alternate Supermen and the like. It really didn’t seem worth the effort in the end; the artwork was impressive, but the convoluted tales certainly weren’t nostalgic for me, being far removed from what I’d read as a kid.

Some years later I was convinced by a highly positive mention in Time to read the Watchmen graphic novel, which was extremely dark but also a great story. I also read the first Sandman books, but although Gaiman is a great author they got a bit too ethereal for me.

Then DC announced a few months ago that it was completely rebooting its entire line, discarding all of the old continuity and starting fresh. They’d also be offering their new line in iPad-friendly versions with the same kind of auto-panning and zooming that Marvel had in its digital line.

That sounded intriguing since I could just download a few books on my iPad and not have to worry about the overload of ponderous continuity from decades of stories. Two of my favorite television franchises, Dr. Who and Star Trek, suffered from such problems of backstory overload, although I was an avid enough watcher of every Trek series to keep up with the dizzying complexities.

The New 52 at DC has a rather digital look. And Wonder Woman is like money: always inflating.

So I’ve bought and read the first three of the new Action Comics with Superman. He’s weaker than before and in this storyline hasn’t really figured out how to be a superhero yet and is leaping about in jeans, not flying around in full spandex. It’s actually been fun and I’ll keep reading it for awhile until I tire of it.

The New Action Comics

There is a separate Superman comic book line where it appears he’s older and more polished with more stuff about Krypton, but that doesn’t interest me. And I’ve sampled and rejected The Savage Hawkman and some Marvel comics. I’m just not the target audience for most of this stuff. The fact that I complain more than praise throughout this article is a giveaway that comics really aren’t my thing, although I like bits and pieces.

I’ll wrap up with something interactive you can try if you like. I found a silly online quiz that supposedly identifies which superhero you most resemble in terms of your personality. Here’s what I got:

You are Green Lantern

Green Lantern
65%
Superman
55%
Spider-Man
55%
Hulk
50%
Robin
50%
Iron Man
40%
The Flash
30%
Supergirl
25%
Batman
25%
Wonder Woman
15%
Catwoman
10%
Hot-headed. You have strong
will power and a good imagination.

Click here to take the Superhero Personality Quiz

Well, I never really cared much for Green Lantern (let alone this summer’s movie version which I wasted money on), but I have to admit that while I don’t want to read about it, if I had to live it I’d prefer a magic ring to bare knuckled fisticuffs. And having to keep that darn ring charged up isn’t all that different from keeping the iPhone and iPad ready to go, is it?

Posted in art, photos, random | 1 Comment

Straddling the Lake of the Ozarks State Park

At Lake of the Ozarks (click image for slideshow)

I’ll wrap up 2011 with a lengthy post about four trails I hiked at Lake of the Ozarks on the last day of the year.

Coping with Hotel Living

Earplugs are my strategy for some hotels. The new one I stayed at in Osage Beach was, as reported in online reviews, run by a friendly couple but suffered from poor architecture. It had a large central corridor which functioned as a resonance box for the indoor pool at one end and all of the inevitable slamming doors from typical thoughtless guests. But my earplugs kept me undisturbed, the bed was comfortable, and the continental breakfast was varied and fresh. It’s a shame earplugs can’t compensate for a cramped bathroom, but it was a budget hotel after all.

Lake of the Ozarks Area

On the last day of 2011 I’d hike on four different trails in the Lake of the Ozarks State Park, straddling it with hikes at the west and east end. These added to the previous day’s hike there and a hike in September 2010 at nearby Ha Ha Tonka. I haven’t exhausted the trails in this area, so I’ll be back in 2012. The long drive from Bartlesville means I will need to stay at an area hotel, so I might try returning here over Spring Break. I wouldn’t like the big summer crowds.

Grand Glaize Trails

By 8:45 a.m. I was on the first trail, which was only a few miles away in the Grand Glaize area on the west edge of the state park. The area name refers to a flooded creek but the origin of the name is uncertain. It lies only a few blocks east of the south part of Osage Beach (aka Laguna Beach), and the area is known for its summer partiers. The state has redesigned the park entry road, which fooled Trixie the GPS, but I had little trouble finding the trailhead for the Rocky Top Trail, a 2.5 mile double-loop.

This wasn’t Tennessee, but I’ll confess I did have the old bluegrass song in mind as I began my hike. Oh my, but I still love it when Buck Owens kicks it into gear. Hee Haw rubbed off on me a bit, I guess. Gloom, despair, and agony on me.

And since it was New Year’s Eve, I could ask, “Where, oh where, are you tonight?” Yes, they did it on Porter Wagoner too.

Okay, I apologize for that. Let’s get back to the trail…

It was still in the 40s so I opted to walk the trail so that I’d be in the sunlight along the lake shore for the start of my hike. I walked past a shelter and down to the shore, where a bright sun was climbing the sky. A fisherman was standing in his boat close to shore and we waved as the trail hugged the shoreline. I reached the waterway which separates the two trail loops and crossed it so I could ascend the adjacent hill to an overlook. The trail, like both of yesterday’s, followed a ridgeline to a point. But this time it was a broad high cliff providing a sweeping eastward view of this arm of the lake.

I spotted a fisherman below the bluff and zoomed in for a look, deciding it might just be a fisherwoman…hard to tell. Across the way were various condos, and boats and birds passed by the point. I could see that I was standing on an overhang of a high eroded bluff and managed to bushwhack down the edge of the bluff and made my way over along its lower and colorful face to stand beneath the overlook. Some large pieces of rocks had broken away, and a bit of greenery was bursting from the bluff. I was very glad I’d made this bushwhack and climbed back past the eroded rock face to the trail, where the Ozark savanna led down into the lake.

I found more tree fungi of various sorts. I returned to the first loop and followed it up to reach a profusion of pockmarked rocks as I exited the forest into a large sloping glade which justified the trail’s name. This truly was a rocky top, with many eroded stones protruding from the grass. I shot a panorama and then exited the glade, which was close to the trailhead. Altogether a most satisfying start to my day.

I knew the nearby Shade Ridge Trail would be less interesting, as it simply hugs the lake shore connecting the marina to the Pa He Tsi area. But it was so close I couldn’t pass it up, so I drove over to the trailhead, discarded my heavier jacket and ear pops since the temperature had climbed into the 60s, and crossed a short bridge onto the trail. It hugged the lake shore part of the way, providing ready access to the water where I could see a fishing boat silhouetted by the glare of the morning sun. Along the trail there were pleasant views of the lake developments. I peered down into a fallen log’s maw, but thankfully nothing came popping out at me.

Squirrels scampered about, as they had on parts of the earlier trail, but they were skittish and would not pose for the camera. I forded a small steady stream and arrived at the closed entrance to the Pa He Tsi area. The name refers to the Big Osage tribe or “campers on the mountain” in contrast to the Little Osage or U-ʇseɥ-ta or ‘”campers in the lowlands”.

I retraced my steps, passing a dead tree which poked at the clear blue sky. The low sun was lengthening my short legs enormously as I walked over to the stream, where some tree roots formed a miniature waterfall. A plane flew overhead toward the nearby landing strip. A couple of fishermen were plying the edges of a cove as I returned to my car. It was time for lunch.

The Lake of the Ozarks and Bagnell Dam

I was craving pizza and Yelp said there was truly excellent pizza to be found at the Alley Cats bar to the north in Lake Ozark. I don’t care for smoky bars, but the lure of crispy tasty pizza was irresistible. So I made my way over, finding I had to cross Bagnell Dam. The half-mile long dam was constructed by Union Electric of St. Louis from 1929-1931 and rises 148 feet from bedrock (so it’s about twelve stories high and seven blocks long). It was named for the town site where it was built, which of course is gone today. At full capacity 30,000 gallons of water can flow each minute through each of the dam’s eight turbine generators, producing 215 megawatts of electrical power.

The dam impounds 600 billion gallons of water and forms over 1,150 miles of shoreline along what the company called the Osage Reservoir, the Missouri legislature named Lake Benton, and everyone still insisted on calling Lake of the Ozarks: the largest man-made non-flood control lake in the country. Since the lake level is very steady, unlike many flood control lakes built by the Army Corps of Engineers, the shorelines have been intensively developed by private interests. Recently the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission ruled that many structures are actually on utility-owned land and ordered thousands of home and businesses to be moved, causing widespread concern and consequent clarifications.

The main road into Lake Ozark, a tourist strip replete with restaurants, bars, and shops, runs over the narrow top of the dam which clearly was meant for smaller cars. You are supposed to creep along at 25 miles per hour, which I dutifully did to the dismay of several young fools behind me, who recklessly zipped around my car both before and after we crossed the dam. I certainly wouldn’t want to be around here in the summer swarm. I’ll take a lonely forest or mountain trail over swarming crowds of tourists any day.

The bar was small and a bit smoky, but the pizza was superb. The bartender proudly pointed out the huge trophy they had won in a pizza cook-off and I had to agree that it was some of the best pizza I’d ever had. Bikers pulled in and drank as I happily consumed my hot, thin, and crispy mushroom confection.

I recrossed the narrow dam and drove up to an overlook. The electric utility had put up a nice set of displays and a viewing platform, along with one of the massive old turbines. The 1931 turbine is cast steel, weighs 50 tons, and rated to produce 33,500 horsepower at 90 feet of water pressure at 112.5 rev/min. I know, only a physics teacher could love such statistics!

The overlook provided a nice line of sight along the dam and one could see the extensive shoreline development. The drive down the other side of the overlook provided a nice view of the dam.

Horse Trails

It was time for the afternoon hike, which I planned for some hiker/equestrian trails at the stables on the east side of the huge state park. I reached the empty Hidden Springs Trailhead at 1 p.m. and set off down the wide trail. Thankfully there was little prominent manure and I enjoyed the wriggling descent down toward the lake. Now it was the afternoon sun forming my silhouette as I strode through tall trees past an almost illegible sign which read “Half Way There”.

Finally the lake appeared and the trail ran northeast parallel to it. It rose to an overlook, but the view was obscured by trees and I bushwhacked downslope for a splendid view.

In front of some low islands a number of birds were lined up along a floating log in the lake. The wind was whipping and I hung onto an odd tree arch on the promontory before climbing back up to the zigzagging trail. I reached an intersection with the south loop of the immense Trail of the Four Winds. The south loop is 9.25 miles long while the north one is 4.25 miles and the 13.5 mile trail is clearly popular with equestrians since there had been a number of horse trailers at its trailhead.

This part of the long trail led down toward the water. Eager to get a better look at the birds, I followed it down. Ferns were growing alongside the trail and I reached the shore where I could see birds fishing in the water, riding the stiff wind and diving to the water after prey.

I followed the Trail of the Four Winds for a couple of miles, passing high bluffs and then making a winding ascent between waterways, but the views were limited and I finally decided to turn back. Rather than wind my way back around the waterway I bushwhacked down it and across, finding more tree fungi in the form of wide white fans. An opossum beside the trail eyed me warily as I passed, but wasn’t scared enough to play possum. I trudged back up onto the Hidden Springs Trail and eventually the Trail of the Four Winds split off and I returned to my car for the long drive home.

Day Hike Statistics

It had been a satisfying end to 2011, with me tacking another 9.5 miles onto my day hike total, bringing it up to 326.3 miles for the year. Since I hiked 50 days in 2011 that averages to 6.5 miles per day. I continue to rack up many auto miles finding new trails, having exhausted so many trails since July 2009. Since then I have hiked 56 days in Oklahoma, 23 in Arkansas, 11 each in Kansas and Missouri, 9 in Oregon, 8 in Colorado and 3 in New Mexico. But there are still some unexplored trails in Oklahoma and many more in Missouri and Arkansas beckoning my boots. Summer vacation continues to be a great time to pick up more trails in Colorado or the Pacific Northwest and escape July in Joklahoma.

I’m still eager to get out and walk about, shooting pics and listening to audiobooks. I agree with Nate Desmond of Practical Manliness about the benefits of day hiking, but for me #5. Relieve Stress ranks above #3. Foster Relationships since I use solo day hikes as a chance to escape from people and work, indulging in my own favorite pastime. But I’m not a complete loner: I do share my photos and write extensively about each trek.  I know some folks who just look at the photos, some who read every detail, and several of my friends never look at my posts, period. And that’s just the way it should be. As Cicero wrote, “Suum cuique pulchrum est.” To each his own is beautiful.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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