Climbing the Heights in Muskogee

May 4, 2014
Azaleas at Honor Heights

The first Sunday of May 2014 found Wendy and me enjoying Chatsworth Boxties at Kilkenny’s in Tulsa. We then took the turnpike southeast to Muskogee to Honor Heights Park. The park is best known for its spring Azalea Festival, but even with their late arrival this year, spring had sprung too far for us to see most of its 30,000 azalea plants in bloom. Nevertheless we did find several large displays of blooms under the shelter of some trees, with some blooms still blazing.

In the warm afternoon, folks were gathered around the water on the west edge of the park. We walked along the west shore of the lake, enjoying the odd noises made by a Greylag Goose. Our path turned east to follow the north shore of the lake, and then we began climbing the big hill which dominates the east edge of the park.

Honor Heights Pond Panorama

Lacking a proper map, we missed the arboretum and the rose garden farther north, so I’m sure Wendy will have us coming back to see those features! (Wendy had sent me a link which led to a virtual map, but I failed to do my homework before we headed out.)

We visited the Azalea Festival plant sales area, where many colorful displays attracted our attention, with plants covered in blooms. Then we located the attractive waterfall, climbing a trail beside it up to the top of the reservoir hill. There we followed a narrow trail northward which must have been part of the park’s Audobon Trail, although I saw no signage.

Honor Heights Waterfall

We passed through a green archway up on the top of the hill and then located the Henry Bresser Nature Trail along the top of the east edge of the hill. This quarter-mile trail was built in the 1930s using WPA funds and has somewhat neglected paths, seating areas, picnic tables, and fireplaces. We were out of sync with the planners’ routing, finding the trailhead at the end of our trek.

Five Civilized Tribes Museum

A blaring alarm led us to the Five Civilized Tribes Museum, which is housed in the Union Indian Agency building of 1875. Unfortunately it is closed on Sundays, so after the presumably false alarm silenced itself we had to be content with the vista of low tree-covered mounds to the southwest, looking past the imposing edifice of the VA Medical Center.

We climbed down the hill, taking the lower stretch of the wooded Audobon Trail back to the waterfall. We crossed the park, seeing more cypress trees with their distinctive knees protruding out of the ground, and returned to our car, having walked 1.8 miles.

I look forward to returning to the park in cooler weather to explore all of the Audobon Trail and see the arboretum and rose garden.

We wrapped up our visit to Muskogee with a drive to see the downtown area and a visit to the struggling Arrowhead Mall, and then returned home. I’m glad I finally saw Honor Heights Park and shall certainly return some day.

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

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Ozark Botanical Garden & Blue Spring

May 3, 2014

The first Saturday in May found me trekking to Arkansas to visit the Botanical Garden of the Ozarks in Fayetteville and Blue Spring northwest of Eureka Springs. It was my first visit to the former and a return to the latter after visits in my youth. Wendy would join me the following day for a separate trek to Honor Heights Park in Muskogee, Oklahoma.

The botanical garden in Fayetteville began in 1994 as a dream of Donna Porter, finally breaking ground in 2003 under Carl Totemeier on 100 acres of city property on the east side of Lake Fayetteville, with Phase One completed in 2006. 

Candy Corn Pansies

I paid $7 for entry, passing a colorful pot of flowers and a patio bordered by flowers to the Founder’s Garden, with a nice bench and a fountain. A lovely pansy caught my eye as well as an orange ball of petals nearby. The neighboring Japanese Garden was in need of attention, but familiar crops were growing in the Vegetable and Herb Garden, which featured a large colorful corn cob mosaic sculpture and a female farmer sculpture with a hose ready for use.

Trellis Tunnel to the Reading Railroad

The most interesting garden was the Children’s Garden, with a cute mosaic gardening hat at the entrance and a treehouse or, perhaps, a house like the trunk of a tree. A child-sized archway led to the neighboring lawn, with another portal featuring a nice adjacent tree design. The second portal was a trellis tunnel to the Kiwanis Reading Rainbow where youngsters could sit and read.

The Butterfly House and Pavilion did not have the eponymous denizens in residence, and the remaining gardens were less interesting to me, although I did like a beautiful tulip poking up above some beds and there were colorful flowerbeds in the Sensory Garden.

I had just enough time to drive from Fayetteville to Blue Spring near Eureka Springs and spend an hour there before it closed for the day. Blue Spring operated as a tourist attraction in my youth with a nice film on Eureka Springs history and the spring itself, gushing 38 million gallons of water each day into nearby Beaver Lake, which was once the White River. In 1993 the attraction became Eureka Springs Gardens and is now the Blue Spring Heritage Center.

Entry was $9.75 and my first stop was to see part of the video on the history of the spring and nearby Eureka Springs. There was less historical information on Eureka Springs than I recalled from my youth; I was running out of time for my tour, so I did not see the accompanying video about divers who made it about 250 feet down into the funnel-shaped spring, which plumbed to over 500 feet in depth.

Blue Spring Pool

My descent down many steps beside flowerbeds toward the spring lagoon refreshed dim memories. Large trout and bass in the lagoon were completely uninterested in the fish food thrown their way from the feeding deck as I followed the boardwalk to the spring. The large circular pool was still there, with a concrete lid about 12 feet down at the original spring opening. The plain concrete rim has now been adorned with pavers to form a perimeter flower bed, with more beds ringing the surrounding walkway. It makes for a lovely setting.

The only other visitors were three gentlemen from India, two of whom were using nice cameras to take shots of the third against the beautiful surroundings. I speculated that they might be taking photos to send to his arranged bride back home, or perhaps to his relatives in the sub-continent.

Candy Corn Pansies

Beautiful pansies, some of which reminded me of Halloween candy corn, adorned the beds. The reflection of the gazebo and feeding deck at the lagoon was enticing as I made my way down the opposite of the lagoon toward the bluff overhang. In 1971, Robert G. Chenall and his students from the University of Arkansas conducted an archeaological dig of that bluff shelter, finding prehistoric artifacts, shellfish and the bones of deer, turtle and other fauna. Some date back as far as 8000 BCE. Chenall also uncovered fire pits and evidence of life such as small arrow points and Woodward Plain pottery, confirming the presence of American Indians dating back as far as 1700 CE.

Bluff Overhang at Blue Spring
Chubby Butt Squirrel

The nearby bluff was pockmarked with small holes, and beyond that the rock garden was carpeted in green growth. I climbed the pretty and more gentle hillside to return to the parking area, passing a chubby-butt squirrel feeding his backside.

The road leading out of the peninsula where Blue Spring is situated offered a nice vista to the west, including a barn and cattle. I drove into Eureka Springs and took the old historic loop through town, finding the downtown packed with folks enjoying the ArtRageous Parade. Unfortunately I was driving through crowded narrow streets and could not capture shots of the revelers. Eating at a downtown restaurant was a lost cause, so I opted for good old Myrtie Mae’s up on the rim and had their delicious fried chicken.

I have booked a cabin at Sugar Ridge on Beaver Lake for Wendy and I to enjoy for a couple of days in early June, so I’ll be back in this vicinity soon; I love Arkansas scenery, but it won’t be long before it is too hot and muggy for the likes of me.

Click here for a slideshow from this day trip

 

 

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The Secret Sisters Take Me Down to Iuka, Mississippi

The Secret Sisters

Wow! I first heard of Lydia and Laura Rogers, real-life sisters who grew up outside of Muscle Shoals, Alabama, via NPR. The song they wrote with Brandi Carlile, Black and Blue, is indeed reminescent of the Everly Brothers, and after sampling a few songs I bought their new album, produced by the legendary T. Bone Burnett.

The odd title to the second track intrigued me, and I was simply blown away by that song they wrote with Dan Wilson. It is a wonderfully dark tale of love and violence, with pounding drums and wailing guitars and strings which are a perfect contrast to their precise singing and beautiful harmonies. I can’t wait to listen to the rest of the album.

Iuka 

(click here to listen; sample or buy Iuka at Amazon or iTunes; album link on Amazon and iTunes)

I’d never tell a man to ask my daddy for my hand
I’ve got a thousand tales about the temper of that man
He’d shoot a man who came within a mile of my young frame
But I know that you will take the risk so I can take your name

You’ve got the ring, I’ve got the keys, and sixty miles ahead
Iuka, Mississippi where the two of us will wed

Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
‘fore he knows the two of us have up and gone
Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
We can run away and never come home
never come home

My Daddy finally knocked a little sense right into me
so I asked around until I found the Justice of the Peace
The bruises on my body can’t be hidden anymore
So park your car up on the hill, I’m headed out the door

Step easy so my daddy doesn’t hear us sneak away
Hang around he’ll shoot you down that’s why we just can’t stay

Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
‘fore he knows the two of us have up and gone
Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
We can run away and never come home

Follow close behind me, not much further now
Always just a shadow, I didn’t hear a sound
Ain’t no way he heard us, Ain’t no way he’ll come
I hear someone breathin’, hold my hand and run

Somewhere in the river there’s a gun the devil owned
Somehow everybody knew that everything was wrong
A noose up in the maple tree; the old man’s gonna pay
Two headstones for two lovers who finally got away

Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
‘fore he knows the two of us have up and gone
Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
We can run away and never come home

Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
‘fore he knows the two of us have up and gone
Take me down to Iuka, Mississippi
We can run away and never come home
never come home

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Bella Vista and Bentonville in Early Spring

April 19, 2014

Next weekend Wendy and I hope to work in the yard and will be chaperoning at the prom, so this weekend we were determined to escape the area for a springtime walk. I figured the dogwood trees would be lovely on the trails at the Crystal Bridges Museum in Bentonville, Arkansas, where we could also view the William S. Paley collection of “modern art” which, given that the former head of CBS died in 1990 at the age of 89, meant mostly early 20th century works focused on French “Modernism”.

Downtown Bentonville

Our first stop was in downtown Bentonville, driving down its Central Avenue bracketed in beautiful redbuds and dogwoods, for the always-yummy four-cheese ravioli at Tavola Trattoria. The nearby alley had a sign which age had rendered ironic, in keeping with how “modern” the Paley collection would be, and was graced by a nice painting by Karrie Evenson. We enjoyed the tulips in the square, and Wendy had great fun perusing the thousands of images in a mural created from drawings by Bentonville schoolchildren displayed on the sides of a couple of buildings. The themes were excellence, respect, and service.

Cooper Chapel at Bella Vista

Dogwood Trail at Crystal Bridges

A Spray of Dogwoods

We parked at the museum and began walking northward on the Dogwood Trail along the eastern edge of the property. The trail lived up to its name, with dogwood blooms evident all along the one mile walk, layers of blooms scattered amidst the other still-bare trees. We turned back south to reach the museum via the Rock Ledge Trail.

Paley Exhibit and More at Crystal Bridges

After stowing Wendy’s bag and my requisite Tilley hat in a locker downstairs, we walked up to the lobby and the Eleven restaurant, where I was charmed to see they have removed the unappetizing Alphabet Soup sculpture by Claes Oldenburg, which used to sit at the restaurant entrance. They have thankfully replaced it with the beautiful Hanging Heart (Gold/Magenta) by Jeff Koons, which now hangs from the high ceiling of the bridge room. It created a lovely backdrop for a picture of Wendy as we enjoyed soft drinks after our warm walk.

Wendy at Crystal Bridges

Koons is known for his kitsch, leading the wonderful critic Robert Hughes to say his work was “so overexposed that it loses nothing in reproduction and gains nothing in the original.” But Hanging Heart seems a suitable adornment for the restaurant; I’ve similarly enjoyed the museum’s Love sculpture by Robert Indiana, which is subject to similar criticism for how he has repeatedly recycled that motif, but which doesn’t diminish its attractive appeal. Winter before last I used Indiana’s sculpture at Crystal Bridges to represent the love of friendship with my dear friend Carrie and last spring Wendy and I celebrated our new love with it. I think of these works as “applied art” which make the museum more welcoming and encourage visitors to engage positively both with art and with each other.

The Paley collection had a work which caught my eye, The Seine at Chatou by André Derain, and the adjacent exhibition of American Modernists who were influenced by the European artists had one work by Marsden Hartley, Mountains No. 22, which is an echo of Cézanne, and a marked contrast to his Madawaska, one of a series of homoerotic paintings he made of a French-Canadian boxer. In one case, Hartley uses golden browns and in the other bright red to draw one’s attention.

The Seine at Chatou by André Derain

 

Motive of Space and Form - A New Jersey Village (Montville) by Oscar Bluemner

Red Flower by Joseph Stella stood out with its striking use of color and strong symmetries. Glare from the museum lighting forced to me to shoot it off-axis, which is an interesting way to battle with those symmetries. My favorite work in this exhibition was Motive of Space and Form – A New Jersey Village (Montville) by Oscar Bluemner. The bold red central building reminds me of Alley Mill in Missouri.

Wendy predicted I would like Ashe’s House, Charleston, South Carolina by Edward Hopper when she spied it in the final gallery at the exhibition, and of course she was right. I’m just disappointed that I forgot to locate and enjoy his Blackwell’s Island, which the museum recently added to its permanent collection.

In the main galleries they had a watercolor exhibit, where John Singer Sargent‘s Nicola D’Inverno Fishing on the Val d’Aosta was a highlight. The modern art gallery had reinstalled Theodore Roszak‘s 42nd Street (Times Square), which we liked for its bold lines and cubist perspective.

Nicola D'Inverno Fishing on the Val d'Aosta by John Singer Sargent
Crystal Bridges Grounds

After enjoying views of the grounds in springtime from various vantage points, we retrieved our belongings and exited the museum, finding a skink along our meandering path up to the parking lot, enjoying the dogwoods near and far as well as Roxy Paine‘s Yield. I wanted to hop into a cute Mazda convertible in the parking lot, but instead my trusty old Camry took us north to Bella Vista to visit the Mildred B. Cooper Memorial Chapel.

Cooper Chapel at Bella Vista

Bella Vista is an affluent retirement community focused on eight golf courses and other recreational amenities managed by the homeowners’ association. It was the first of several similar developments by John Cooper, whose wife Mildred is memorialized by a public chapel which I’d discovered in TripAdvisor.  A glimpse of the chapel on my iPhone was enough to recognize it as another Fay Jones work, echoing his wooden Thorncrown Chapel which I’ve visited many times near Eureka Springs, as well as his Powell Chapel which I visited two years ago near Kansas City. Thorncrown is particularly striking with its crossed supports, contrasting to the curving metal forming the gothic arches of the Cooper chapel.

Walkway to Cooper Chapel

Out front was a nice dogwood which was covered in blooms, and the cool interior with its soft music was a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Crystal Bridges. I liked the lightness of its curving supports, with their thrusting but playful ribbons of steel. The airy design belies the 31 tons of steel holding up all of the glass. The main arch at the end of the chapel invites one outside, and we circumnavigated the structure obscured by the surrounding forest. The view upon leaving a place is perhaps as important as the view in approaching it, and both the chapel and its pathway dogwood shone in that respect.

Cooper Chapel Interior

Blowing Springs Trail

Blowing Springs Trail Track

We needed another walk before contemplating dinner, and happily I discovered a listing for the Blowing Springs mountain bike and hiking trails. I enjoyed but was not wowed by the Tanyard Creek trail I trod in Bella Vista back in November 2009, and was glad to find Blowing Springs a peaceful walk along a forest ravine on its South Upper and Lower Trails. Someday I want to return here to hike the northern trails in this system.

We parked and set out uphill, soon to be rewarded with a sweeping view of the bluff across the small ravine. Several mountain bikers passed during our walk, all of whom were quite polite and patient with us clodhoppers. The south side of the lower trail had some nice rocks, while the north side of the south lower trail featured a deep notch in the bluff, which I will affectionately if not accurately consider a cave, and a tree which grew to encompass the top edge of the rock layers. Up a nearby rise are the graves of Mary and Joseph Mills, who settled the land back in 1868.

Deep Notch in the Bluff

The south upper trail had its own woodsy charm as it led us back above the bluff line, past the curving bridge on the lower trail. We enjoyed more dogwoods and a occasional redbud. Sharp-eyed Wendy spied a rock with crystals, following up on her find at Onyx Cave the week before.

This 1.5 mile walk was a nice end to our day, to be followed by a tasty meal at Abuelo’s back in Bentonville. Sadly, I completely forgot to eat at the local Applebee’s to see the mural they created from my photos for its interior…that must await a future trip.

Click here for a slideshow from this day trip

 

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Firetowers

April 13, 2014

Wendy and I escaped to the Ozarks on Saturday, enjoying a 4.5 mile hike on the Firetower Trail at Roaring River State Park and taking a drive along the nearby Sugar Camp Scenic Byway.

Granger Atop the Firetower

Our visit to Roaring River began near the base of Seligman Hill with lunch at the Emory Melton Inn at Roaring River State Park, enjoying the beautiful redbuds out front. Our meal prepared us for a 4.5 mile loop hike on the Firetower Trail.

Firetower Trail Track
Wendy at the Firetower

We drove over to the Nature Center to start the hike, noting a large woodpecker hole in a tree at the start of the trail just behind the center. Soon we reached the trailhead near Camp Smokey. I had chosen to have us ascend the steepest section of trail first, climbing to the top of the ridge where we were grateful for the now-level trail.  Eventually we reached the old CCC firetower, which has been dwarfed by the surrounding trees for many decades. Wendy posed at the base and was willing to climb this diminutive tower before returning to the ground to shoot me leaning over from atop the tower.

Dogwoods were in bloom all along the trail, and Wendy picked various flowers, happily pressing them into a book as we made our way around the park. We enjoyed the peaceful walk alongside Roaring River to complete our loop back to the Nature Center.

Dogwood
Sugar Camp Firetower

Next we drove up Seligman Hill to enter the forest and turn off on the Sugar Camp Scenic Byway. We made the requisite stop along the old forest road at the Sugar Camp Firetower, a classic Aermotor tower. A bunch of pickups with trailers for 4-wheel all-terrain vehicles were parked at the base. I knew Wendy would not want to climb the big old tower and the last time I ventured to the top its cab was rather decrepit, so we stayed on the ground.

We then drove on to the unmarked Onyx Cave Overlook, which now offers a view of the Eagle Rock Christian Conference Center down below. Wendy sketched the view and then we made our way down the steep trail across the road to little Onyx Cave. The narrow passage off the entrance has been barred off for years, so instead of spelunking I bushwhacked my way downslope for panorama of the hillside.

Onyx Cave Entrance

Wendy was very glad we trekked down the cave trail, despite our failure to wear proper footwear, because she found a lovely stone with crystals along the trail. That was a far more impressive find than anything we managed to scrounge up at the crystal mine in Arkansas over Spring Break.

Wendy's Find at Onyx Cave

I thoroughly enjoyed the slow drive along the old gravel forest road, admiring the farms down below. We spent the night in Cassville, but the next time we visit Roaring River for hiking, we’ll try staying at the Emory Melton Inn in the park.

The next day we returned to Bartlesville, driving along US 75 to see very impressive clouds above Jarrett Farm. Little did we know that the same storm system was even then sweeping over Caney to the north, with powerful winds stripping off shingles from the roof of the home of our friends, the Hendersons. Nature was displaying both its beauty and its power on this spring afternoon.

Jarrett Farm Clouds

Click here for a slideshow from this trip

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